Winter is a wonderful time of the year. It is time for snowmen and sled, games in snowballs and feeding each other with snow, and just you can think and play war, blinding the shelter and ammunition. But it was all great when we were children. Although adults also know how to rejoice in the snow and spend the fun time, especially in ski resorts. Now Sanki we changed skis and snowboards, but we still like to roll from the mountain at high speed, only already on a more "advanced vehicle."
As they say - you love to ride, love and sosochos to carry. In this case, I mean the fact that our favorite skis need mandatory care, otherwise they will last long. And we love them so much! Yes, and paid a considerable amount for them.
The main rules for skiing
How to care for skiing:
- No salt and lack of snow.
- Wear skis in a case.
- Use lubrication.
- Carefully monitor the Kants and the sliding surface of the ski.
The first rule of skiing
The first rule reads - no salt and lack of snow! This means that our expensive skis (in the literal and figurative value) were created for riding only in the snow and nothing else. If you suddenly decide to walk along the ground or in the salted snow, you can safely say goodbye to them. In choosing a place to descend, you must be extremely attentive - stay away from highways, there often snow sprinkle with salt, and make sure that you do not have "bald" sites on your track, that is without snow.
Second rule of skiing
The second rule is to wear skis in a case! If you are going to transport your skis to a long distance, then you must "dare" them, that is, put in the case. It is advisable to put them with sliding surfaces to each other, so they will be less likely to be damaged.
Third Rule
Using lubricant - Slogan Third Rule. Our skis love when they are "stroked." Literally. We take the iron, warm it at the minimum power, lubricate the sliding surface of the skiing paraffin (medical or candle) bought at any store or pharmacy, and begin to "iron" the skiing, leveling paraffin over the entire surface. All, the simplest lubricant is applied. If you do not want to use conventional economic paraffin, you can purchase a special ski. What will be more correct, as the skis rims are not so good from the girlfriend.
Ski paraffin happens:
- without fluorine;
- fluorine
Fluoride in turn sharing on:
- light fluorine;
- heavy fluorine.
What to choose - to solve you. It is worth learn from the seller which paraffin is best used in universal weather conditions. So you will not need to overpay once again, buying separate paraffin for heat and separately for frost.
But we can also go more expensive and look behind lubricant to a specialized store. To do this, you should know a little about professional masses.
There are 2 groups of ointments:
- solid in cold weather;
- liquid on warm weather.
You should also know that ointments may contain fluoride additives, additives of molybdenum or carbon. These additives improve the properties of ointments. And not only ointment. The price they also "improve", lifting it up several times.
Before applying a new lubricant, you should not forget that you first need to clean the surface of the skis from the old
. For this, there are special means - a fiberboard and wash, the so-called Base Cleaner. You can also try to clean the surface with a conventional cloth and any solvent, but this will not give the same result as special means, plus it can be damaged by a randomly movable surface. After processing, you can already boldly apply lubricant.
Another advice in the choice of lubricants - if you do not have a lot of time to care for skiing, and you are an amateur in skiing, then here you also have to stop at the universal lubricant, which also as paraffin is suitable for a fairly wide range of temperatures. After all, we rarely when we can predict our wonderful weather and vacation.
And do not forget to take a mini-keycover with you at the time of skiing, which includes lubricants and all cleansing agents. Either, at least a special napkin impregnated with lubricant.
We also do not forget that the skis should be put on storage only with lubricated, otherwise they will be easier and faster at the time of "rest" from exploitation.
Rule fourth - how to care for skiing
The fourth rule is to carefully monitor the edges and the sliding surface of the ski. So, we start our process to restore skis, of course, with the fact that we clean them from the old lubricant and all pollution. As it is done, it was described in the third rule. So arming with special means and forward!
Next, we need to remove all irregularities, holes and scratches on the sliding surface. First we clean the places that we plan to "treat" and put in order. For the fill, fine plastic fits perfectly, it is polyethylene, which is usually used to repair skis in workshops. It is applied using a special pressure pistol.
It is advisable to apply it more than it is that, because everything is too much deleted during the cyclove.
Also, to secure the result, you can still process the entire surface of the soldering iron skiing - this will give the strength of our patch. As the final stage - proceed to cyclishing.
Now our skis are ready for sharpening - one of the most difficult skiing procedures. Here you need a strong excerpt and patience. Make it is not so simple, but still really.
To begin with, we wind the isolent to another end from the handle of the file. If we want to get an angle of incision to 0.5 degrees, then we wake it up in 2 layers, if we need 1 degree in 4 layers. Also to facilitate the work, in order to immediately it was clear that we can take advantage of the marker and paint the edges from the surface of the treated surface. Now put a file on the treated surface to yourself by a wound electrical end at an angle of 45 degrees. And observing the distance of 50 mm between the tape and edge, which is exactly, begin to move smoothly in the direction towards yourself. We carry out these uncomplicated movements until your entire painted area becomes matte.
But to sharpen skis on the side of the side, it will be quite often, otherwise their state can be strongly launched, which will have to restore them only in the workshop, while pretty yelling their surface. So if you always want to ride with sharp cants, follow the following procedure, at least once every 3 days.
So, we take a duralt of 90 degrees. Of course, you can, of course, to purchase a specialized store branded and already with an accurate tilt of the angle, but it will cost you very expensive. So, if there is no such possibility, you will have to work with handles. In general, we take our corner and glit a thin strip of metal or a wire to it.
Its thickness should be 0.45 mm if we need an angle of 89 degrees and, accordingly, 0.9 mm for an angle of 88 degrees. These sizes observe, provided that our corner is perfectly smooth and straight. Now we take a file and with the help of clamp we press it towards the corner. Starting "on yourself". Again, you can use the marker to see the results.
After we returned to our Kart to the former sharpness, you can proceed to remove roughness. To do this, we take the usual plexiglass and fasten to it a small eye. We proceed lightly all sharpened surfaces. Our crates are ready! Finally they became sharp.
How do you care for ski boots?
Ski boot care rules:
- do not get involved in a leg clip;
- do not walk in shoes;
- well dry shoes;
- no batteries;
- store shoes in a case or chulana.
As for the first point , then you should think here not only about your boots, but also about your legs. Tighten the clamp in moderation - it will ride comfortable, and you will use the boot longer.
As for the second point
I can also say that if you are going to go far, it is better to remove shoes and carry in your hands. After all, they were originally made not for hiking, but for riding, that is, a fixed position. And during the walk, the plastic part of the boot is deformed, and the inner sock can also break. Remember that shoes should be in perfect condition and purity, so that the attachments are triggered correctly.
Well dried boots - this is the third item . It is best to leave them in the cold. Well, or you can put them in the room, but I have previously stuck in any paper. So they best dry out.
In the fourth paragraph Written - no batteries! Here I think you, and yourself guessed. After all, the boots are not intended for high temperatures and can be deformed.
And of course the fifth rule . That ended our ski rest, and it's time to give to leave on the rest of our shots. First you need to wash both external and inner boots in the soap solution. Next, insert a crumpled paper inside, in order to avoid the deformation of the shoe, and remove them for storage in the case or put in a dark storage room, pre-buttoning them.
Care grounds for fasteners and skis sticks
Fastening care:
- fasteners must be clean;
- spray fastenings with silicone aerosol;
- properly transfer skis;
- lack of backlash between fasteners;
- store and transport in case.
Everything is extremely simple. Therefore, I will not write everything for a long time for each item, but I will summarize everything, because the departure care is one of the easiest processes of the ski kit.
Firstly Always watch the attachments to be clean, clean them from contamination with cold water.
Secondly Thanks to the silicone aerosol, you can protect them for a long time.
Thirdly , Ski transportation has previously been described, sliding surfaces to each other, it also protects fasteners.
Fourth It should be remembered that when you put a storage skiing, it is best to loosel out all the springs, close the heels and trace the lack of a backlash in the fasteners.
And finally, fifth
, do not forget that, like all the other parts of the skis, fasteners, are also best to store in a cool and dark place by placing them in the case. Straight sun rays harm them.
Skiing stick care is quite simple - the main thing is to follow the state of the rings and the dorms. If something is lost or breaking - replace. And bent sticks can be easily brought in direct state.
Now you are armed with absolutely all the knowledge of the professional skier. And if you love this kind of winter sport, but still does not decide to purchase a skis set, as you worry that their service will cost much more than the skis themselves, I hope that after reading this article, you have convinced that Everything is much easier and cheaper. And now bolder to conquer the ski resorts! Only first do not forget to look into a specialized store, because you will need some necessary care products, well, or actually the skis themselves.
Video plot how to care for skiing
Skiing.
First pour holes, then bother and sharpen edges and finally lubricate with lubrication. Yes, yes, and lubricate, too, so that the material of the sliding surface is not oxidized during storage, and Canties protected by paraffin did not rust due to the moisture contained in the air.
Whether to cook on the "flyovka" or skating on their own ... A difficult question, I can't give advice here - it all depends on the proximity of the workshop, and from well-being, and from the ability to keep a file in your hands. Girls, I think, you need to use the services of a specialist, and those men who know how to keep a screwdriver and a file - you can and ourselves, if you do not need to be seriously repaired and not too lazy to find suitable materials, and then spend a few hours to lick each pair of skis. But there is an opinion that every real skier must at least once in life prepare skis on their own - so why not this time? It is only necessary to rummage in the tools and find a non-stupid file for metal work, soldering iron, several old plugs from champagne, paraffin, to drain her favorite new iron from my wife ... or visit one of the stores that sell a specialized tool, acquire the necessary materials and tools, and take on the evening, another kitchen table.
Consider several options, each of which is divided into completely amateur and slightly closer to professional. At the same time, as an illustrative material, I use the SWIX catalog - one of the companies specializing in the delivery of tools and skiing tools - the most complete source available to me at the moment. By the way, I draw attention to the fact that even on the websites of manufacturing companies information, unfortunately, incomplete - some, very useful, tools and materials I did not find there, but the catalog of the firm mentioned is fairly full, and secondly, What is important - translated into Russian. So online directories in this case makes sense to use "to assess the situation."
Option 0. Ski is planned to sell. In this case, it is necessary or as much as possible to prepare them for sale to get the highest possible price. Or, on the contrary, leave everything as it is to, first, to be absolutely honest in relation to the buyer, and secondly, not to give yourself to suspect that you have tried to hide serious defects. And that and other options have the right to exist, I would choose the following tactics: if the skis are new and expensive, would take them into the workshop - the sliding surface will be after grinding almost new, Kanta is ideal, and 10 - 30 dollars returned during the sale. skis. And if the skiings are "not very," and they have been released for a long time, you can't sell them for big money - you can leave as it is, just lubricate and sell under the motto "I do not hide anything." Well, it is clear that if Kanta is already round, and on the sliding surface, explicit deep traces from unequal battles with stones, then it's better to work with a file and plan the holes, at least independently - more attractive look will be skiing. But I repeat - this is my taste.
Lyrical retreat number one: About lubricant. The first thing that needs to be done is to remove the remains of the old lubricant, which can be done, for example, using a special fiberboard SWIX and gel fiberboard, which are called "Base Cleaner" (base cleaner, that is, the sliding surface). You can also find on sale and sets that are plastic bag with nested ... the above objects - fibermen wipes and the same Base Cleaner. And after that lubricate.
Now there are lubricants for hot use, which are applied using iron, and synthetic cold use lubricants that are sold, packaged in plastic packaging, some are equipped with an applicator - a special napkin or a pad for applying and rubbing lubricant, and disposable sachets. After I tried several different lubricants of several different manufacturers, the view was the following: For an amateur, the most convenient is a universal lubricant, which works equally well in a very wide range of temperatures, which allows you to prepare skis in advance, that is, when there is time.
On the ski tests in Kirovsk, we used the universal lubricant from the Cera Nova series, which can be applied cold, and then lose a special rubbing, or melt the iron, and then bother plastic cycles (SWIX, too, also do it). By the way, the model provided us with a model or 7322, or 7422 (I don't remember exactly, in fact, both are good for the house) is much more convenient than my old home, which is still without Teflon on the sole, but already with a thermostat. True money this iron is worth the SWIX, infection ... but very convenient. Well, with you on the slope I am very advised to take a semi-liquid (pasty) lubricant in a tube, type F4. Or a set in a small plastic handbag, which includes a napkin, and Base Cleaner, and the lubricant is universal. I can only mention that I like the liquid lubricant less than the pasty. Well, yes, it is again - for my taste. And if it's absolutely too heavy to carry something heavy in your pocket - take a single napkin impregnated with lubricant. Such too, and also F4.
If the money to spend on special flushes of ointment "toad stamps", or they simply do not have them, money, you can try to remove the old lubricant and dirt with the help of a rag and gasoline, acetone or other solvents that do not contain oils, but these solvents are well wash off only oil spots, And about the quality of the washing of ointments, I can not say anything. Yes, and there is a risk that a powerful non-specialized solvent is still solvent, for example, the glue layer between the material of the sliding surface and the core skiing, or the glue, which is glued with the decorative layer ... So it's necessary to try to try carefully, and then your favorite friends bathe. Well, you can lubricate a skis or a vulgar candle, or (which is much more correct) medical paraffin sold in pharmacies - there is no all sorts of aromatic additives and dyes in it. But I will immediately make a reservation that it will slide will be worse, honestly - checked. That is better than without lubrication, but worse than when using special lubrication. So at least to participate in competitions use lubrication. Yes, one more thing: at least after the end of the season I am very advised to apply the soil and ointment, requiring the use of the iron, and not ointment of cold use and not a simple paraffin molding: when the pores are heated in the sliding surface, the soil penetrates inside, and this contributes The best conservation of the properties of the material from which this very sliding surface is made.
The following two options, in my opinion, makes sense to consider if the skis are planned to be left for yourself.
Option 1. Take skis and take them to a skillful master who will do everything. From the disadvantages of this option, I personally seem to be substantial: first, pretty high price of this event regarding the value of well-moving atomic or fischer, and secondly, if you do not have a motor vehicle, it is quite funny to watch the reaction of the visiting seedlings of summer residents and girls in acidic minibes on an individual, volstiging in May (!) Ski in the subway. But these are little things - the main thing, the skis should be put in order until the summer - the sliding surface of the goals will be. That is, it will be the same in the same way, but its properties during storage without lubrication deteriorate quite strongly, which can lead to undesirable consequences - it is easier to damage, you understand! Well, oh well, about lubrication - see "lyrical retreat 1".
Option 2. Independent.
Step 1. Prepare the necessary materials, tools, and - forward! It is necessary to start with the cleaning of skis from the residues of the old lubricant and all the dirt that is found on the slopes and about - the lubricant from the lift, automotive oils, and so on. What - already wrote a little earlier.
Step 2. Pour holes and large scratches on the sliding surface, bounce, sharpen edging, lubricate. I can mention that again after the experiments I stopped on the branded material for the fill - with the simplest "instillation", the soot is practically not formed, and the folding patchwork is very plastic, it looks very pleasant to look like an ottchychynaya surface, not sharpened when processing. And from the branded materials I liked the most thin plastic designed to repair skis in the workshop, with the help of a special pistol. Work convenient, results - shine! And if you split the sliding surface with a soldering iron - then the strength of the patchwork is very decent, just cycles, even steel SWIX - not suddenly open. About sharpening - just below, in the "lyrical retreat 2".
Step 3. With respect to fasteners, it is enough to install springs on a minimum force and close the heels. Some manufacturers believe that the springs in modern mounts can not be released. True, they (manufacturers) and do not suspect that in our country the fasteners can work for 20 years ... so it's better to let go of the springs, let them relax ... With regard to lubrication - if your attachments are in Work less than five seasons, and no one washed their gasoline, and in the sand you did not ride them - do not score yourself, do not climb into them. But if or age is already decent, or some other attack (type of sand) - here without partial disassembly, washing with gasoline-kerosene and without lubrication by some consistency lubricant type of lithol (in the auto shops and small tubes for sale) can not do. True, it is quite difficult to partially disassemble modern fastenings, but in some models you can climb, completely byverting and pulling out (along with the spring) adjusting screw of the operation of the operation of triggering ... But I did not say that !!! That is, I hope everyone understands that this operation is made at your own risk ...
Step 4. Put skis into a closet or for the wardrobe, the main thing - you do not need to put them on the balcony, where they will pour rain and shook the birds, nor in the loggia, where the temperature can and 40 degrees exceed - and this is not exactly what they are Designed, right? You can build a hanger somewhere outside the door, you can throw on a closet or on the mezzanine ... By the way, about the hanger. The simplest - the reinforce is from below, so that the skis on the wall are located, and some kind of rustic turntables on the gauze at the top: turned horizontally - and ski socks to the wall were fixed, turned vertically - skis freely fall on the owner or his home ...
Lyrical digression number two. Sharpening ski in detail and very correctly the meaning of the ski sharpening is set forth in the All-Mountain Skier book, the Russian translation is located at the address (http://ski-club.org.ru/school/book/?content\u003dch10). There is also an explanation of that why dull kanta at the ends of the ski.
Below is approximately described the procedure for sharpening the ski, which are followed by professionals. The initial conditions: the sliding surface is flat, without convexities and concave, holes are flooded, polished. But it is better to grind the base on the machine in the workshop - at least once in the season. What for? To align its surface and remove a thin layer of metal with ground, stones and rounded (swept about snow and ice) of Kant, at a minimum. In any case, this is exactly what people who have such an opportunity, seriously related to skiing. I am no longer saying that such a grinding removes a thin top layer of sliding plastic, the most scratched and aged. I know that there are craftsmen who slightly sliding the surface with the help of an electrician, cylinder and skins, but since I didn't do this very much, I can't advise. Also, I never align the sliding surface of the ski throughout the length and width with a file, which is also done by some masters.
Point of edge from the side of the base (bolding of edges).
| Performed on new skiing or after grinding the base. For this, there are also cunning (and pretty expensive) imported tools (general name used in Russia - cores) for sharpening, such as Swix Xactor with an adjustable sharpening angle, there are also plastic or metal SWIX guides and whole sets that provide the corner unchanged Tilt of the file to Kant (produced with angles 0.5 - 1 - 1.5 - 2). But (no matter how paradoxically), skiing professionals are serious - individually, and not "on the stream", use the following simple and cheap way: first prepare the tool, and if experience is not enough - then skis. |
1. On the far from the handle, the end of the file (the end of which will move the file with a sharpening) to wind the isolate blue or black plastic: if you want to get the sharpening angle of 0.5 degrees - two layers of the isol, 1 degree - 4 layers of the isol. The tape is used first because its thickness is already known, and secondly, it will somehow slide on the basis. If you have a caliper and you are able to measure the thickness of your adhesive tape (tape, leukoplasty, self-adhesive paper ...) - You can use anything. To obtain an angle of 0.5 degrees, the winding thickness should be approximately 0.45 mm, 1 degrees - 0.9 mm and so on. Those who wish to get more accurate figures are sent to the school rate of trigonometry.
2. In order to be clearly visible, the results of your work, felt-tip pen, paint the edges from the side of the sliding surface. It is better to use a thick alcohol marker - it is not erased by hand, but only steps with a file, naturally - along with Crate. After a dozen sharpened pairs of skis, you can easily control the results of sharpening and without painting, but for now - smear the black.
Actually, the process itself is simple: put a file at the base with an end with a wound tapeney at an angle of about 45 degrees and sharpen long smooth movements in the direction of "to yourself" until the ink of the felt-meter, secondly, Kanta is not They will become equally matte along the entire length, but do not heal the sliding surface! At the same time, it is necessary to withstand a distance of 50 mm from the wound tape to the edge of that edge, which is sharpening. See Figure Left.
Sharpening Kant from side surface skiing for any desired angle
Requires a corner (in the figure on the right - the spinless under the angle of 92 degrees, which provides an angle of sharpening 88 degrees), a good flat file (not "velvety", but not milling), clamp or clamp. Of course, all these tools - both clips, and files of all sizes, and corners with corners of 86 - 90 degrees, and sets of guides - are produced by any self-respecting company, and SWIX is no exception. You can also use cantherais - and mentioned above Xactor, and easier, without adjusting the angle, under 89 degrees - Edger. By the way - if you do not want to buy frequent files - there is also a wrist brush: from steel wire, in the tool store for sale, sometimes (for example), such brushes are sold in housekeeping stores under the guise of brushes for cleaning dishes. Just in case - if you want all the brand, then SWIX and it is.
| More about the corner. Metal corner (Dulely, so that Kanta is not afraid to ruin) - you can buy an already specified company - expensive and very accurate, you can order a milling machine - cheaper and without a guarantee of the accuracy of the angle and strength of the structure, and finally the simplest solution on the right drawing with a red strip . Take the conventional trim (under 90 degrees) a corner of duraluminum, and 25 mm from its direct angle, along it, glue by epoxy glue narrow metal strip along the entire length of the corner - just it is shown on the left figure in the form of a red stripes - or steel wire Thick (diameter) 0.45 mm for an angle of 89 degrees, 0.9 mm for an angle of 88 grains and so on. |
About the fact that from the corner you need to beat all the bursavires and check how accurate it is, and you look - and it will have to stick to the wire, I do not mention ... I hope the drawings are quite understandable. In the figure at the top - the spinning corner, and in the figure on the left - a similar purpose, but the usual, with the exact additional strip.
| Critting the corner a file and in the direction "on yourself" to sharpen the edges from the side of the side surfaces of the skis, tightly pressing the corner to the database. For visibility, the results of work, especially if Kanti used to be sharpened in a straight corner, it also makes sense to paint them with a black felt-tumbler, now from the sides of the ski. To evaluate the results, you can also use a magnifying glass. After the Kents became sharp along the entire length of the ski (more precisely, from the point of contact with the socks of folded base to the ski base to the point of contact of their heels) it is necessary to remove small burstles and roughness. There are special devices and SWIX - Diamond Files (Diamond File) of different roughness, for example, or "Rubber Stone" (Rubber Stone), which represents an alloy of rubber and abrasive powder, but can be used and a piece of sufficiently hard plastic (for example, plexiglas) with shallow skin glued to it. From the side of the base, you can easily press this device alternately to each of the Kants and gently process them. And from the side of the side surface - you can clamp this tool with the help of angle and clamping the same as a file at a ski point, and walk across Edge. |
After such treatment, Kant must remain sharp, but not rough. By the way, it is with the help of such a plate with the glued skirt (of course, if there is no Diamond File in the arsenal) it makes sense to remove burstages before taking skis in the mountains. The fact is that after hitting the stone, the sowing can be so strong that it will not take it a file. And the skin (not glass, of course, and the corundum) in this case can help smooth the burdens hardened when the buns should be applied before applying.
You can also come up with an option to use a flat diamond nadfil, but I have not tried it, although I know that the people do such adaptations and successfully uses. I think it is better to apply the same corner and clamp, only between the clip and the supfyl in this case, it will be necessary to pave a sufficiently strong metal plate (steel, millimeter 4 - 5 thickness) so that the tip is not flexing and changed the Cant sharpening angle. Actually, all. That is, then the finish processing is first. First with the help of a particularly small Diamond File, then the most sophisticated use Ceramic Stone is already for mirror polishing, but it is already so "the highest pilot", which is terrible to think ...
Of course, I did not mention the mass of the tools - about brushes for the rubbing of ointments, about the selection of ointments, did not list the entire range of accessories, but not sure what it is necessary - the lover is sought in configuring the ski, and the more professional, this material is not needed. And in order to get acquainted with the minimum necessary tools and materials, this article is perhaps enough. And in more detail with the entire range of SWIX, you can read or in the catalog, or in the Fisher's store - there is a repair shop and shop. In particular, all those "branded" tools and materials of the SWIX, which I used as illustrations and examples in this material.
Skiing
First of all, it should be noted that skiing implies the processing of the sliding surface. Of course, at home, it is not always convenient at home, but if you have a minimum set of tool: clamps for fastening skis, scraper, iron, a combined manual brush and grilling, then this is enough to care for walking skiing.
The main rule when caring for skiing is not harmful. The sliding surface loses its properties with prolonged contact of the unwashed ski with outdoor. Also, skis are very sensitive to overheating. The most efficient way to combat such overheating is the observance of the basic safety rules: heating the iron to the temperature indicated on the packaging of ointment, and move it along the sliding surface by movement from the sock to the heel, and not forward-back. As a rule, two or three passes are enough for most ointments.
Primary processing of new skis includes
:Removing the layer of soil paraffin (refers to more expensive skis)
Treatment of rigid fibertex sliding surface
Paraffin applying with the subsequent removal of the scraper (multiple conducting this procedure contributes to improving
slip new skis)
Processing brushes
Further preparation of ski for specific weather conditions is to choose a paraffin on the intended temperature of air and multiple (at least 3-4 times) paraffin applying to the sliding surface according to the above scheme.
Ski ointments are divided into two main groups-complimental slip and ointment holding. The first provide optimal quality of sliding, and the second prevent returns when moving by a classic course, that is, skiing back when repulsion.
Hardware maize marking markings.
1. Find the center of gravity (balance line) of each ski, mark it with a marker, put skis on a flat surface and stand up so that your shoes socks are on the balance line.
2. Transfer body weight to one skiing entirely and ask the assistant to spend the paper under the ski. Paper should move freely back and forth back from the balance line by 15-20 cm (depending on the ski length).
3. Make a marker marker in the part where the sheet stopped moving.
4. Repeat the same operation on another skid.
Masi holding on "classic" skis are applied within the holding zone. Before applying lubrication, the holding zone must be treated with emery paper (No. 60-80) so that the ointment is not erased quickly in the riding process. Do not apply sliding ointment or paraffin within the skiing zone for the classic stroke.
Mazi Holding is solid and liquid (clisters).
Solid ointments are applied in the usual way. - Let the jar of ointment from the foil, sodes it within the historic zone, and then scroll with the synthetic rubbing to create a thin smooth layer. It is better to apply a few thin layers of ointment than one or two thick. Many skiers use a combined lubricant, catching various ointments as the upper and lower layer.
Liquid ointments in the warm room are squeezed out of a tube on both sides of the groove and sprinkle with a scraper or thumb. The cliser layer is then triturated with synthetic rubbing to create a uniform layer. Typically, clisters are applied with a thicker layer than solid ointments, but at a lower length of the holding zone
Cleaning the holding zone from the old lubricant is performed using special solvent washes. First, the old ointment scraper is removed and then the residues of ointment are removed with a richly moistened paper napkin.
Unfortunately, in this article it is impossible to tell in detail about all the nuances of the preparation of modern cross-country skiing, but consultants of the L-Bike online store will be readily responsible for all issues affected in this topic.
We wish you success in the upcoming winter season!
Like any sporting equipment, skis wear out over time. However, observing certain rules of care, you can easily achieve the fact that your skis will last for a long time. With the main recommendations you will introduce our material.
- Immediately after buying a skiing, it is necessary to wash, carefully cleaned the surface from the paraffin, which manufacturers protect it for the time of transportation. It should be removed, since it has already time to absorb dirt and dust that will damage the sliding surface of the ski during the riding process. Use the Base Cleaner or solvents.
- When transporting skis, let them cross up - use lipaks for bundles and protective covers.
- Keep skiing preferably in the warm room at home, however, holding them in the distance from the heating devices.
- Do not leave skis on the winter street, especially if during riding the water got into fastenings - they can get damage and crack as a result of the freezing of the liquid. Try to avoid exposure to ski sunlight.
- Regularly examine the equipment for damage. Pay special attention to the plane of the sliding surface and the pointerness of the Kant.
- Cant round, the appearance of irregularities and burrs appear on them signals you about the need for a speedy sharpening. Contact your special workshop or process edges yourself using canthoresis and file.
- After sharpening, Kanta should be polished by special stones (use diamond polishing stone, and then a ceramic polishing bar or abrasive polishing bar).
- Several times a season, apply a ski ointment (better with a wide temperature range) or soft paraffin onto a sliding surface, thanks to such a lubricant it serves longer and better slides in the snow.
- Once the season it is recommended to use the "hot way" lubrication.
We process skis by the hot lubricant method:
1. Preheat iron (preferable if it is an old model without Teflon coating).
2. The iron must have a temperature regulator: set it to a minimum mark.
3. Shipping any smooth surface (for example, floor or table) with newspapers and put on them skiing with a sliding surface up.
4. Gently bring paraffin to the iron. Make sure that the drops of the molten paraffin fall into the sliding surface, forming a chain in increasing about 5 centimeters.
5. Paraffin must slowly melt. If it cracks hard, it means that it is necessary to reduce the temperature of the iron.
6. Quickly endure the sliding surface of the ski, evenly distributing the paraffin.
7. Slip the surplus of paraffin from the ski surface with a scraper. As a scraper, you can apply a rigid plastic plate with a sharp edge (a ruler or a musical disk box is suitable).
8. Finally, do not forget to extort the iron.