Pitry - club sick mountains. Died Ulyt Sht - one of the strongest climbers of the world! How died Ulyt Sht

Uli Stack (it. Ueli Steck; October 4, 1976 - April 30, 2017) - Swiss climber, two-time owner (2009, 2014) "Golden Luxury".

Uli Shtlocking climbing at the age of twelve years and already at eighteen, possessing uncommon physical and, above all, psychological qualities, held the most complex climbing routes in the Alps. After ten years later, he entered the elite of the world climbing community, and since 2004, when the leading world media and sponsors were paid to him, his name became a symbol of new sports records in the mountaineering, and he supported this status to death. His unique achievements include numerous ascents of the most difficult, including new, routes in the Alps, as well as a number of world records of high-speed high-speed highlights for the Himalayan eight-thousandnesses and the Great Northern Walls of the Alps (English. Great North Faces of the Alps) for which He got the nickname "Swiss car".

He died on April 30, 2017 in the Himalayas during the acclimatization exit during preparation for the high-speed passage of traverse Everest - Lhotse without the use of additional oxygen.

If you try on your fingers of one hand to list the most prominent climbers of modernity, creating a story here and now, then, undoubtedly, the top ten will be the name of the Swiss Uli Khka. Anyone interested in the mountaineering, is a familiar name. It threatens sensational headlines both in about-climbing and in a wide European press.

The main motive of the life of the streets of Sto was not constant hunting for meters and records.
He just liked to work on himself, put the goal before his body and invent ways to achieve them. For this, he endlessly improved both its purely physical form and climbing technique. He especially liked the fitness classes, for whom he adhered to, for example, a tough diet, completely rebuilding his system of burning fats and carbohydrates in order to, as it was presented, to high-qualityly increase his sports efficiency.
There was nothing new in this, but in the end, he really managed to widely push the horizons of the possible, and this is how it is impossible to answer His nature, because Uli Plek bowed to the same extent before, it would seem endless, the possibilities of the human body, Which he admired the mountains, the best of which, as you know, can only be the mountains on which there has not been!

And so, step by step, he began to conquer such vertices and conquer such spaces that were already outside common sense and rational human mind. Such an attraction was the high-speed climbing, which turned into his distinctive brand, in its brand, which became its "skate". Many simply swung their heads in bewilderment, considering the high-speed records of Stockht Stark as an expression of his pride, self-confidence and even eccentric egoism.
Many believed that thereby he violates the philosophy, initially lying on the basis of the relations of the mountains and the Swiss, and the main principles of which were calm, work, inspiration and respect for eternal heights, against which anyone, even the most "significant" person involuntarily looks Small and lost.
Olya, Shtt did not particularly draw attention to all these commandments, turning the legendary northern wall of the Higher Mountain to the distance, which it turns out to be overcome by just 2 hours and 22 minutes.

Ulya Shtt was born in Lannaya-im-emmental in the family of Mednisk Max Corde and his spouse lisabet the third of the sons. His both older brothers engaged in hockey, one of them at a professional level, and in his youth I went to their footsteps. In addition to Hockey, Olya also worked together with the father of skiing, but the real passion of the mountains embraced him after the ordinary climb along with another family by Fritz Morgetâteler on Shttenflu - "ordinary" top of the Swiss Alps in the Emmental Valley. After that, he began hard to engage in rock climbing (at first on artificial clogs) and after a short time, he had achieved impressive results in this sport, not only due to amazing physical qualities, but also internal readiness for risk. "I rose near the mountains and began to climb in 12 years. I myself opened them for myself, and it was an omen. Mountaineering is the perfect way to learn to think and learn at the same time. Rules are simple and obvious. If you have not taken a sleeping bag, you will be cold. If you are not strong enough, you will not be ascent ... "In the professional sphere, in addition to mountaineering, Uli Shtov received a profession of a carpenter, which was engaged in until the end of his life.

At 18 years old I was climbed by Eiger and the two vertices of the Montrablan Mountainside - Bonatti Pillar and Aiguille Du Dru.

Uli Sht was a man who mercilessly drove himself all the time forward, and this he realized perfectly clearly. That is why he paid so much time insurance and security, and he did not make the main bid at all on hoozy, ropes and carbines. He was confident that in the mountains, and in general in life, the human factor is in the first place, and that is why he grinded without tired, honed and improved all his already already superhuman abilities. All this turned him into an outstanding athlete and in a shining guide for a whole generation of young super climbers who have long been trying to defeat even the mountains, but themselves.

swissinfo.ch: Your last project is quite ambitious - try to go through three complex Himalayan peaks (Taboch, Cholatyze and Ama Dablam) before climbing Everest. Doesn't you bother you, what can you boost on a piece that you will not swallow?

Uli Sht: all right, a rich program, and although my main goal is to reach the vertex of Everest without oxygen, I will rather climb into other peaks than two months I seek without a business in the basic camp. Even if I manage to take at least one vertex of three, it will be something else.

swissinfo.ch: You call your project "Khumbu Express", which creates the impression that you run on the mountain and back without spending time to receive pleasure from what is happening.

W.Sh.: I may enjoy the mountains more than most of those present. Climbers who are going to Everest, for acclimatization rise several times and descend. I go to other vertices, where I admire various things (landscapes). Some it seems as if I take too much for myself, but I prefer to climb the mountains, and not sit without a case.

swissinfo.ch: How important is it for you to climb Everest without oxygen?

W.Sh.: Go to Everest on the classic route, of course, is not the most outstanding achievement in my career. On the other hand, it is the highest point of the planet and reach the vertices without oxygen and the help of Sherpov - a serious challenge. There are several things in my climbing list that I would like to implement in life, and Everest is one of them.

In 2012, the plug was already rising to Everest without an oxygen cylinder, and in 2015 he conquered all 82 alpine peak above 4 thousand meters for 62 days.

Uli Sht set several records in the super-fast solitary rise in classic routes.

He also contributed to the popularization of mountaineering thanks to the adventure films, filmed based on his ascents.

2007 could end for a catastrophe ulocks. During the solo-climbing in the southern wall, Annapurna was pleased with a stone. The insensible climber rolled down the wall of the whole 200 m. The uli remained alive thanks to the helmet, which after hitting smashes, and the rocky protrusion that stopped slipping. As a result, the Swiss was separated by a concussion of the brain and several bruises.

The sad incident did not reduce the desire of an athlete to conquer Annapurna and a year later, he again finds himself at the foot of the Himalayan giant. However, Uli Sto is not lucky this time. He was forced to stop his climb, get away from the route and come to the rescue of the dying Spanish climbers in Indica, who passed away after a while. For its act and achievements in Sport, the Swiss was awarded the Eiger Award an honorary premium.

In 2004, she achieved another impressive result, in one bundle, together with the climber Stefan Siegrist, for one day, passed the northern Walls of Mongue, Jungfrau and Eger.

Having spent several attempts by Ulya Sht, set a record of the speed of ascent on the North Wall of Eger in 2007. He passed this route in solo style, resorting to insurance only three short sections. And no one was especially surprised by this. Naturally - after all, the Mountain is almost at the threshold of his house (until it is 30 minutes away). For the first time, having passed the northern wall, Solo, in 2004, spending 10 hours on it, then it is steadily, a centimeter behind a centimeter, moved to this record and already reduced the time of passage almost twice. The very first record of the passage speed along the North Wall of Eger was registered by Rhinehold Messner and Peter Habeller in the famous 10-hour sprint-climbing in 1969. Usually, such frequently subjected to records are interrupted by just a few minutes or even seconds, Uld Pliste ahead of the previous record holder (Italian Christopher Heinz, a 2003 record) for 43 minutes with a new time 3 hours 54 minutes.

Great North Faces of the Alps) for which he received the nickname "Swiss car".

He died on April 30, 2017 in the Himalayas during the acclimatization exit during preparation for the high-speed passage of traverse Everest - Lhotse without the use of additional oxygen.

I rose near the mountains and began to climb in 12 years. I myself opened them for myself, and it was an omen. Mountaineering is the perfect way to learn to think and learn at the same time. Rules are simple and obvious. If you have not taken a sleeping bag, you will be cold. If you are not strong enough, you will not be ascent ...

Already at the age of 17, Uli rose along the Eastern Ribe (30-pitch route with difficulty 5.10 on the YDS scale), and a year later (in 1995), together with Marcus Iff (Eng. Markus IFF), he passed in two days in the Alpine style The North Wall of Eger (according to the classic, which is later, in total, passed more than three tens of times, including on new routes). Over the next few years, he honed his skills on classic Alpine routes. In 1998, Solo was held at the 1000 meter Kuluar of Heston to the top of Mongue (TD + (FR. Très Difficile) - " extremely difficult"On a French scale), in 2001 in the winter rose to Pointe Walker (Grand Joras) on the eponymous edge (England Walker Spur) (an extremely complex route with a length of more than 1,200 meters) and in the same year, the first climb was made in Himalayas (c) on the western wall on the Pumori (1400 meters, M4 [on m scale]). A year later on Alaska, he along with Sean Easton (English Sean Easton) paved a new route Blood from stone (Blood from the Stone) (5.9-A1-M7-AI6 +, 1600 m) on, considered one of the most impressive firstbirth in this region in the first decade of the XXI century.

The North Wall of Eger remained in the center of attention of the COX. By the beginning of the new Millennium Ild rose along it almost all previously laid routes. On October 15, 2001, together with he rose to the top on his own new route in the center of the North Wall - The Young Spider. (Young spider), 1800 meters, A2, W16 / M7. In 2003 (after two unsuccessful attempts to pass the northern wall of Jeanne) on June 29-30 - in two days, a rapoint ("Pure" Lazagne was held in two days ("Clean" Lazagna without connecting stationary dots) route La Vida Es Silbar (900 meters, 7c, V [through a red row]).

Already making a name in the mountaineering environment, the most widely fame of Shtov received in 2004 after passing a free lasagna (without the use of rods) of an extra-challenging alpine route on the edge Excalibur. (5.10d) (climbing his friend and professional photographer Robert Bösh, and these pictures later shielded the largest Swiss media) from the helicopter. His sharply growing popularity of the Uli did not fail to capitalize sponsorship from the most famous brands, such as Wenger, Scarpa, Petzl, Mountain Hardwear and others, and since then his name has become the same brand associated with new mountaineering achievements. Regarding such impressive sponsorship support, Shtov said: " I want to live with mountaineering ... I do not want to live in a pickup» .

In June of the same 2004, he, together with the Siegrist, passed the northernmost walls of Eger, Mongue and Jungfrau (they needed nine hours to pass the route Hekmayra on Eiger, three hours on the route Laupura on the mehs and five hours on the route Laupura On Jungfrau - on the last out of total, they spent three hours on the passage of only the last 150 meters). A year later, Olya took part in the expedition "Khumbu-Express" (English Khumbu-Express Expedition), during which he made the first single climbing on the northern wall (6440 m) and the eastern wall (6505 m), and in the winter of 2006 (with 7 to 11 January) passed within five days, but already solo, his own route to Eiger Young spider .

After another year, February 21, 2007, Uli Sht set the world record of the speed of ascent on the northern Wall of Eger (according to the classic route), rising to the top for 3 hours 54 minutes, improving the previous speed record installed in 2003 (according to statistics It was the 22nd rise of the cutter on the wall, and only at this point he spent 48 days of his life on the wall). In the spring, Plent took his first attempt to solo-climb on the southern wall of Annapurna, which ended on May 21 with a drop from a 300-meter height, and only a miracle climber stayed alive (he was arisen from the wall by Konnepad and after he managed to get to the basic camp.

2008 became a culmination in the Swiss career. On February 13, he broke his own record speed of the Eiger, improving time to 2 hours 47 minutes 33 seconds. On April 24, together with Simon Anthamatten (SIMON Anthamatten) made an alpine-style first-width of Teng Kang - Kang Poche (6,487 m, VI, M7 + / M6, A0, 85 gr., 2000 m ) For which the bundle was awarded the highest award in Alpinnis - the Golden Luxury Prize (2009). In May (together with AntaMatten), he took the second attempt to climb on the southern wall on Annapurn, but she was not crowned with success - instead of a solo program of Uli participated in the salvation of the Spanish climbers, whose height began the elderly. Plock with medicines in a forced pace, despite the high avalanche danger, for three days he rose from the base camp (3000 m below) to 7400 m and tried to save him, but the efforts were in vain, and his Spaniard died in his arms. After this tragedy, Uli admitted that he would need time to return to the mountains again. However, at the end of the year, on December 28, he made the highest possible ascent to the Grand Joras on the North Wall (at the Pointe Walker Peak) on the route Colton - McJintera (Colton-MacIntyre Route, M6, Wi6, 1200 m) - 2 hours 21 minutes (Earlier, the Sht did not pass this route, he took a 50-meter bay of 5mm rope to climb [K 1], two ice womb, two Jumbera and four carbine, but he did not need this arsenal). Two more weeks - January 13, 2009 - Plock established an absolute record in the passage of the first three, after 1:56, after passing 1000 meters vertically ( Schmid Route) On the northern wall of Matterhorn. On May 30, 2008, Oil Shtt in Grindelwald became the first winner of the Ager Prize (Eng. Eiger Award) in the same year, handed over popularization of mountaineering due to their own achievements» .

The next few years of his career, the Swiss dedicated to the climbing in the Himalayas. In February 2011, he began implementing his ambitious project "Project Himalaya" (sponsored Mountain Hardwear.), during which it was planned for one season (April - May) to make high-speed climbing of three eighties, including Everest. On April 17, in just ten and a half hours, he rose a solo on the southwestern wall from the basic camp to Shisha Pangmu (8027 m) (20 hours on the rise / descent). 18 days later, on May 5, together with the American climber of Olya, less than a day he rose from the foot to the top of Cho-Ohu (8188 m) - the sixth top of the top in the world, and on May 21, together with Bowie, an attempt to climb to the top of the world, However, due to the risk of foot frostbite, it was forced to interrupt it in a hundred and small meters from the ultimate goal. "" "[K 3] for the next year, May 18, 2012, Ulya, along with Shero Sharp Sherpa (Tenji Sherpa) rose to Everest on the classic route from the south, and he became the fifth eight-year-old in his career.

... I'm not going to sacrifice Everest any of my fingers ... So it's better to go down. Everest will remain, and I can return!

In the same 2012, the Swiss Machine Machine Skt spoke not quite ordinary an amplua for him. August 18-19, together with Marcus Zimmerman (Markus Zimmerman) he committed less than 15 hours " alpinist-paraglider»On the Jungfrau-Monh-Eiger route. Partners started on paraglids with passing wind from the restaurant's observation platform on the top of Shilthorn, after 6 km of flights they landed on the other side of the valley, rose by 1000 meters high to the shelter, where they spent the evening, " enjoying a beautiful sunset" At 3 o'clock in the morning, a couple started up on the rottalgrat ridge (RottalGrat), and already at 8 am, from the top of Jungfrau, they flew in the direction of Mongue, the foot of the northern wall of which ultrasound achieved 27 minutes of flight (Tsimmerman's wind took the other side of the mountain). In 1 hour 55 minutes rising by the route Laupura To the top, the Sht flew in the direction of the shelter on the eastern eponymous crest of Eger. It was safely achieved by his street on him at 15:13 he went to the last vertex of the famous Trio, "B". Going a little on the western ridge, Ulyas again flew out on the paraglider down and exactly at 17.00 landed on the parking of the village, where the car was waiting for him.

another, countless times, but still worried about me and a special moment

In April 2013, Ilock Sht and his team (Simone Moro and the supervision of Jonathan Griffith [ Jonathan Griffith.]) Found in the center of the international mountaineering scandal. As part of the planned implementation of the traverse project Evert-Lhotz, a group of Ulya during the acclimatization exit on the classical route from the south due to the inconsistency of his actions with sherpaces [K 4], which rolling the ropes between high-altitude camps on the eve of the beginning of the season, after descent to camp II underwent Physical attack on the part of the latter due to the allegedly dropped ice fragment. This incident, as actually threatening the life and health of the cum and his partners, not only led to an unscheduled completion of the expedition (despite the world-signed "world"), but also to a comprehensive discussion of the conflict in the climbing community and, of course, media coverage. However, in the fall of Uli Stlock returned to Himalayas, so that the third time try to climb on the southern wall on Annapurna, and this time his attempt was successful - October 9 (in 28 o'clock on the lifting / descent from the basic camp) Pont first in the world passed Solo one of the most technically complex walls on the eight-thousandth (at an unfinished route of 1992), for which in 2014 he became the two-time owner of the "Golden Luxury". After climbing Ulyas, said: "" [by 5].

I think that finally found my altitude limit if I climb something more difficult than this, I'll kill myself exactly. But go through something technical, like this, I really wanted

Not stopping at what was achieved, on March 17, 2014, a street in a conjunction with a German climber for the first time in winter, for a record 15 hours 42 minutes passed all three northern walls of the massif Tre Chima Di Lavano (on the route Cassina at Chima Ovei, Comewy at Chima Grande and Innercoofler at Chima Piccol), and at the end of 2015 he for the third time he broke the record of the speed of climbing on the northern wall of Eger, alone walking over 2 hours 22 minutes and 50 seconds, thus becoming an absolute record holder in high-speed climbing in the Great Northern The Walls of the Alps (the previous high-speed highlight record for the 2008 Eiger was beaten by the Swiss on April 20, 2011, his time was 2 hours 28 minutes).

In the same period of 2015, in just 62 days, the Shtt rose to all 82 alpine peaks with a height of more than 4,000 meters, although he took 80 days to implement this of his project on the initial plan. Of these, the Solo was passed, and 51 with various partners, including Nicole's own spouse, Michi and others. This brilliant achievement, nevertheless, was overshadowed by the death of the Dutch climbers Martight Surden (Notherl. Martijn Seuren) as a result of a breakdown in the Mont Blanc massif.

In the spring of 2016 Olya Shtler, together with the German climber Dafid Getler (David Göttler) intended to climb on a new route in the southern wall to Shisha Pangmu, however, because of weather conditions, she was not crowned with success. As part of this expedition, the climbers found the remains of the American bundle and David Bridges (we all tend to talk about more modest intentions, but if it turns out to achieve something more ambitious, why not inform. Horseshoe is extremely difficult, no one passed it. But if Who was capable of this - then only Uli Sht ... He was those who did an impossible possible

Despite his impeccable Renome, the facts of climbing Shisha-Pangma 2011 and on Annapurnu 2013, for which Ulya Shtov received his second Golden Luxury, was questioned by the climbing community, since I could not provide ultrasound, first of all only direct (photo, video) testimonies of stay on tops, but even indirect GPS data, manual altimeter, etc. The main prosecutor of the cum in falsification of these achievements was the French journalist Rodolph Pokye (FR. Rodolphe Popier), which in its investigation, in addition listed facts, drew attention to many other factors. Among them, at discrepancies in the testimony of the HOUSE themselves, the uneven rhythm during the climbing (at the most high-altitude and complex areas of lifting the speed of the weather increased significantly compared with the simplest sections of the route), the inconsistency of the readings of third-party observers with the plural presented. One of the weighty arguments "Against" Annapurna appeared the fact that ten days later the French twice rose on Annapurna and, which did not find traces of the ultrasound above his Bivouak. However, according to the French themselves, for those 10 days that they separated the climb, the half-meter layer of snow fell on Annapurna, which, naturally, hid all the traces.

The arguments of critics, reflected in the reports of the Rodolof Pier, were reviewed at the International Forum on the evidence of top-level climbing in mountaineering (International Forum On Proof in Mountainingering) under the auspices of Piolets d'OR. As of 2017, the question of the insolvency of the assertions of Coca Ulibka about the climbing on Shisha-Pangmu and Annapurna is not worth it.

Ulya Plek was married to Nicole Plek (English Nicole Steck). I owned French, English and Italian.

Its achievements were not a consequence of a combination of only data from the nature of physical and emotional qualities with motivation. Back in 2007, after the ascent on Eiger, in his own opinion, at the peak of a sports form, a survey was held at the Swiss Federal Institute of Sports Magglingen (Swiss Federal Institute of Sports Magglingen), which was summed up by the results of the research: " Not in the form of unsympathisch My main source of inspiration is a thirst for learning. Knowledge give freedom. To acquire this knowledge, you need to learn. To be free, you need to be calm, and to be calm - you need long and painful workouts. In order to achieve skill at the highest level, you need to fully immerse yourself in the sport, you need a passion, but at the same time you have to accept, feel that you are all just starting, like a student, and continue to learn. It is important to understand if you want to be a professional and strive for success

The terrible news came today from Nepal.

According to confirmed data from prepurants of the Tourism Department, Nepal, it became known that the legendary Swiss mountaineer, the 40-year-old died when climbing the Nuptsze sevendenth base near the first high-rise camp on the western slope of the mountain.

His body was discovered this morning on the slope of the mountain Nepalese sherpami and is currently transported to Kathmandu.

Uli became the first victim of the climbing spring season in the Himalayas ...

According to refined information, the tragedy occurred today, April 30 in the morning (about 8-9 am local time). Ahhu went to the acclimatization climbing early in the morning, according to his own words he shared the day before this exit, the mountain was in good condition: not too much snow and not as cold as it could be.
The accident itself occurred at a mark of 7,200 meters, where the route goes to the rock. As a result, the accident has fallen down the slope of 1000 meters.
Several people saw the fall of the streets, and soon his body was discovered a little below the second high-rise camp, at a rate of 6400 meters along the route of climbing Nuppze.

Editors:
The first high-altitude camp of the climbing route to the seven-thousandths of Nuptsz coincides with the first high-altitude camp of the climbing route as Everest and on Lhotse

Lari Ugerti, a climber who rose in the team Adventure Ascents said: "The body of the St Cree's streets found at the base of the Western Wall of Nuptsze, apparently he climbed solos and without insurance. This climbing on the Nuptsze, he conducted as part of the acclimatization before Evert-Lhotse.

Editors:
As we reported earlier :.
This time, there was no one in the streets of Uli as the first in the history of oxless climbing on the route Everest - Lhotse.
In the climbing uli, he was accompanied by his comrade - 24 Summer Nepalese Sherpa Sherpa (Tenji Sherpa), who was already rising to the top of Everest in 2012 and made it climbing without the use of oxygen cylinders.
You can read more about this expedition in an interview:

The reason for the tragedy is at the moment not known, and on the basis of the fact that there was no one next to Uli, we never know the true reason.
But, presumably, the cause of death became a breakdown from the sheer section of the route or, he slipped on the ice plot "

In this acclimatization climbing ussa, 7000 meters on Everest was already raised, and he did it in his "corona" high-speed style, but what more remarkably - without using high-altitude climbing equipment, the race went literally in sneakers!
Apparently, he decided to repeat this race to the neighboring top of Nuptsze.

"The high-speed climb from the base camp to 7000 meters and back in one day! I adore these mountains, they are huge here. I still believe in the active program of acclimatization, it is much more effective than spending long night in high-altitude camps"- Posted Uli April 26, 4 days before his death.

The death of St Cum's streets became a terrible tragedy in the mountaineering ....

The Alpinist family has already reported that he is located to endless sadness in connection with his death and that she asks to refuse any speculation and speculation related to the circumstances of his death and that their relatives themselves are currently not ready to provide any additional information.

On the unanimous solution of the whole family

The body of a stamp street is transported in Kathmandu:

Recall that in 2013, in this area, the famous, who, as well as Austa, was committed by acclimatization ash, then the cause of death became.

Uli Plek in his climbing career achieved such heights that no climber could repeat, first of all it concerns his high-speed climbing alone and without the use of insurance.
For these achievements he
And if in the Alps, his native mountains, ultrasound did not leave places for doubt, having committed a real feat: setting on the so-called "trilogy of the northern walls of the Alps", then in the large mountains - Himalayas, when climbing the eight-thousandnesses, his ascents were repeatedly exposed criticism.

"Former carpenter, Ulya never sought to become a real climber or mountain guide, he simply turns mountain climbing in" Sport ", and his position is kept in the world due to no more than dozens of his fans"- They talked critics of Stockht Sch.

In addition, the Olya was known as one of the defendants of the conflict that was spent on the whole world on Everest, which occurred in the spring of 2013, when three Western climbers, including Uli were beaten by Nepalese sherpami.
You can learn about this conflict from a small interview with Uli:

We continue to publish articles, in this article we will tell about:

October 4, 1976, Lannaya-im-Emmental (Switzerland) - April 30, 2017, Nuppze (7861), Nepal

The future legend of mountaineering, Uli Sht, was born on October 4, 1976 in the small Swiss commune of Lannal-im-emmental, in the heart of the Alpine Mountains.

Being the youngest of the three brothers, Uli came to the sport through ice hockey, playing in the youth teams on the position of defender, and who knows, perhaps the world has lost the great hockey player.

However, the Uli, who grew up in the charm, he could see from home, could not pass by the mountains.
After spending a few years in early youth in a hockey box, he learned his persistence, excerpt and sports anger. Having become a climber, he moved all its qualities and installations on the "vertical relief".
When a teenage school in his 12 years rose to his first sheideggwetterhorn peak (3361m), he thought: "This is a real mountain." Then his obsession with Eiger soared. It is noteworthy that besides Ulyas in his family, no one essentially was interested in the mountains.

The path to the height mountaineering in those years was lying through climbing climbing, and Hockey, he himself, without any assistance and councilov joined the Swiss climbing club, in which, after a couple of years, he received a place in the National Junior School of Switzerland for Round Climbing, as part of Which he even performed at national competitions, and at 17 he was able to pass the rock complexity 8a.
But artificial walls of the climbers and small climbing routes on natural reliefs quite quickly bored uli, and the majestic mountain peaks were so tempting and so close ...

Ahlo about yourself:
"When I was small, I played hockey. This is such a cool team game in which if your team lost, it is clear, then the fault of this or that player. If there was no guilty among the players, then everyone understands that the case is in bad The work of the coach. He must change his tactics, strategy and training system. It turned out to be in the mountaineering otherwise - if a person did not reach the top, then there is no hile of hile, except for his own. And this philosophy is close to me "

In 1995, in 18 years, Uli begins his legendary climbing career. And the first, according to the present "adults", the ascent for him became, the mountains, which he dreamed of so long. The climb was committed by. This climb was not a solo, because His companion Markus was his companion, neither speed, after all, the couple rose to the top in the "habitual" mountaineering pace either lightweight, because the young and inexperienced uli could not afford to risk life in essentially unknown to him atmosphere.

At the same time, he managed to pass the Bonatti route on the southern wall of Mont Blanc.

The young uli, as most of his colleagues, novice climbers, understands that only the climbing on the tops of the mountains (without having the serification of a mountain guide) will not earn money for life, but the growing desire to rise more and more more and more investments of funds in gear and preparation for expeditions.
Ah was forced to look for a profession for himself, and such a profession was the profession of a carpenter, which he learned after graduation.

Subsequently, some critics of Coca Uzka cling to this profession, saying that he never sought to become a climber:
"Former carpenter, Ulya never sought to become a real climber or mountain guide, he simply turns mountain climbing in" Sport ", and his position is kept in the world due to no more than a dozen fans" - They say critics of the street.
In these words there was a share of truth, Ulya never sought to become, making a living by leading customers to the mountains, his calling in the mountains was another.

Unsupported, the temperamental character of the Olya has already quite soon led the young Swiss to the thought of solo and high-speed races on the tops of the mountains.
Thus, among the first of his achievements, it is possible to note the solo climbing the Kuluar of the Huston to the top of the four-year-old meters (4001 m, Switzerland) in 1998, on which he rose in 3.5 hours and run along the Lauprai route passing along the northeastern Wall of Eger, On this route he rose in 5 hours.

It is worth saying what an uli, as it may seem, did not immediately come to the Egeru, even with climbing experience, he, before the first climbing climb, had to learn new skills. About one of these first experiments, Ire recalled:

Ahlo about your first climbing experience:
Once a friend of my father asked me:
- Do you want to climb? See the route? Climb.
In his view, climb - it means to lead, not the second to rise.
We had two python. Rope. No arbors.
- Come on, I will climb after you.
- But I do not know how to insure!
- What's where to be able to be a rope around yourself and give out, like this.
I was scared scared.
It was normal, mountaineering was developed.
Probably somehow it influenced me.

In 2000, Uli came to another route on the North Wall of Eger - "Yeti", which he broke into a pair with his compatriot. It was the second passage of the route.
In the same 2000, Oloe opens his first climbing route: 1000 meter "Nordwand Express" passing through the Deretysim of the Northern Wall of Mount Mong. This route is categorized with M5 / Wi5 difficulty.

Also 2000 was for him the first experience of winter climbing: Ulya passed the route to the top of the peak Pointe Walker (Walker) - 4208 meters high, which is.

From the next, 2001 Uli Sht goes to the World Arena, discovering Himalayas and the highest peaks of the world.

And the first Himalayan vertex for him was the seven thousand Pumori (7161 m), on the expedition to which he was invited by a professional mountain guide from Switzerland, his aunt, Uli Bühler (Ueli Bühler). In this expedition, the deuce opened a new route to the top, having passed 1400 meter on the western wall of the mountain. The category of difficulty of this route is estimated as M4 with a key in 80 degree ice slopes that is located at a mark of 6600 meters.

In this expedition, the team decided to make an unprecedented climb on the amazing 1400 meter rocky western mountain wall, this climb passed in an easy alpine style, without pre-prepared camps and a large number of equipment. Two passed the entire route with a 60-meter rope.
However, despite the professionalism of the Bülera and the incredible energy of the pc, the climbing did not pass without incidents: the Bühler was injured by the stonepad on the rocky area, and Ulyas, passing through the snow balcony, by negligence, having collapsed him, also having broken down, and if it were not for the bouling insurance , Ulya is unlikely to be returned from this climb.

All the climb took two days from the Swiss with a cold overnight on the wall. The descent from the top was held according to the standard route along the eastern edge of the mountain. In general, the entire assault yield lasted 43 hours.

Returning home, again, in a pair with Stefan Sigrid, in 2001, 24 years old Oloe opens another large route: 1100 Meter "The Young Spider", passing in the center of the North Wall of Eger. This line has a category of difficulty 7A A2 M7 Wi6 and today it is the most complex route on Eyger!

Eiger. Northern Wall. Route "The Young Spider" at number 29

In the next, 2002 Olyona Easton, 2002, a stunning route on Alaska to the top of 2909 meters high.
This 1600 meter line, called the "Blood from The Stone" was laid on the eastern, vertical wall of the mountain. The category of route difficulties is estimated as 5.9 M7 A1 AI6 + X.

mount Dicky (Mount Dickey), Route "Blood from the Stone"

In the spring of next year, in a team with Erhard Loretan (Erhard Loretan), and Stefan Sigrid, Ulya tried to pass the northern wall of Nepalese Seven Tshanknik Zhanna (7710 m).
Their assault ended at a mark of 7100 meters due to bad weather.

During the summer of 2003, Aiuger's Ageru again returned to Egera, where the route "La Vida Es Silbar" (V 7C, 900m) was held, which was punched by Jumberts by a sighter and a condo anchor in 1999.

Another attempt to go through a new route to Jeanne, also in a pair with Erhard Loretan, again ended without success.

Ahlo about the attempts of climbing Zhanna:
"It was cool, we were on the whole head touched. I was at all a boy, I had no experience, and I thought:" Oh, we climb on the north wall Zhanna! "
I was invited by Erhard Loretan "Oh, I will climb with my idol on the northern wall of Jeanne!"
And even if we did not climb, it was an important step in my life, in my career of the climbers, I learned so much.
Erhard Loretan had a huge influence. Even just spend time in the mountains with him ...
He explained to me a bunch of things that I used on Annapurna, for example, to continue climbing at night, then you don't need to drag sleeping bag, is all its influence.
I learned a lot, and it was great. When you are young, such ideas should come to mind, it is important, I think, in the mountaineering, it is generally important to have crazy ideas and just try.
I mean when you have no chance to climb badly. "

In November of the same year, in a team with David Faselem (David Faselem), Ralph Weber (Ralph Weber) and Stefan Sigrid Socialist departed to Patagnia, where he repeats the climb on the route Ermanno Salwaterra "SPIGOLO DEI BIMBI" to the top of Punta Heron. It was the second climbing route and only the third to the vertex itself!

Further growing reputation of ultrasound as a strong and successful climbers allows him to leave the profession of a carpenter and dedicate all his time only mountaineering.

Ahlo about yourself:
"When you try something new, all - time, forces - everything goes to prepare. You think you will do it, preparing consciousness to perceive the conceived, as the norm.
After everything remains behind, some time need to understand what I did. This is usually: "Crazy!" "

In 2004, it was significant for the Uli, because it was with the high-speed passage of the famous "Alps Trilogy", which includes three walls of the Bernese Alps: Eiger, Mongi and Jungfrau, in just 25 hours of Hall became a world famous climber.
It is worth noting that in the usual category of complexity of climbing routes to these vertices are estimated as 6A, 5B, 5A with a total height difference of about 3,800 meters.

Also in 2004 Nursa returned to the rocks, passing such lines as Silberfinger (6B, 200m) I Excalibur (6b, 350 m) in the free climbing. And the first repetition of the route Stefan Globach "Letzte Ausfahrt Titlis" (8B, 500 m) is located on the eastern wall of the Swiss Mountain Titlis (Titlis). Ahh and Ines Poplet, which later repeated the passage, offered to lower the category of this line to 8a +.

In 2005, Olya, decided to prove that the idea of \u200b\u200brapid passes for one expedition of a number of mountain peaks is completely applicable to Himalayas, on the highest tops of the world.
He decided to organize his expedition called "Khumbu-Express" in the valley of Khumbu (Nepal) and the first of the vertices series became the northern wall of Mount Cholatze (Cholatse, 6440m), at which the French route of 1995 was held, however, to which, at the top Mountains (above the mark of 5900 meters) added its own option. Himself has described this route as "very difficult and at times and very dangerous." The key points of this route were estimated as 5+ M6 90 degrees on an ice slope.
The vertices of the Mount Uli reached after 37 hours of assault.

The second goal in this program was the Eastern Wall of the Mountain of the Tuchoch (Tawoche, 6495 m), to which the Uli came after a week of rest after Cholatze!
Tuch, namely, her eastern wall remained impregnable for seven years in spite of many attempts to climb her. But for Uli, it was not the reason for retreat, on the contrary, the Swiss literally ran this huge 1500 meter wall for a record 4.5 hours!
It is worth noting that the climbing of the Uli spent in Free-Solo style, without insurance and partner, having 20 meters of 5 mm of Kevlar Recanur, three ice cream, two ice ax. At the bottom of the route is a mix of complexity M5 and the upper plot is vertical ice cliffs.
The assault storm began in half an hour before midnight, and already at 8 am the next day I had tea in the basic camp!

The third top of the program was scheduled for the "Icon of Himalayas" -, namely the memory route Strauf Belaka "Strauf Belak Memorial Route", which was first open to the Slovenian team of Fourlan - Huar.
Unfortunately, in this climbing uli was forced to get off the route at a mark of 5900 meters due to heavy snowfall.

Nevertheless, this "Trilogy of Himalayas" was highly appreciated by the international climbing community and as proof of this, the Uli, was in the nominees of the prestigious award in the world in the mountains :.

Note that so far, this "Trilogy of Himalayas" remains with anyone who has passed to the end.

Start 2006 Oloe spent in solo climbing in the Alps, where in January month, during five days was able to repeat the passage of its route "The Young Spider" on the northern Wall of Eger. But this time ultrasound "made impossible", just that this line is considered to be the most difficult on one of the most complex walls of the Alps, he passed it in the hearth and even in winter!

In March 2006, a new high-speed record of the climbing on the route Bonatti, passing along the North Wall of Matterhorn

And in July 2006, the young Swiss discovers his first eight-year-old: he goes to Karakorum, where he joins the team of Hans Mitterer (Cedric Hählen) and Cedric Hählen in order to climb the eight-year-old Gasherbruum II.
In this expedition, the team opens a new route passing along the northern edge of the East Shoulder with access to the secondary peak Gasherbruum II East (7772 m)!
And although the main goal of the team has not been achieved: they did not rise to the main vertex of the eight-thousandths because of difficult weather conditions, their route became significant in this mountain range, especially since the climbing itself, which was initially initially as fast, sports exit was held in Very difficult conditions. In the first assault, which took place on July 5, the conditions on the mountain were so bad that the team even fell under avalanche, which came across the third high-altitude camp area.
Fortunately for them, everything went well, and already on July 10, a second assault was scheduled, which ended with ascent on top.

It was the first ascent from the Chinese side to the tops in the Broad Peak area, Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak!

2007 became awesome in the history of the mountaineering: uli for 3 hours 54 minutes was able to surpass for 30 minutes to achieve Christophe Heins and install a new world record in high-speed climbing on the North Wall of Eger! But this record did not hold out for a long time, and next year, after spending the strongest and targeted workouts, and the Ulya exceeds its own achievement, establishing a new record at 2 hours 47 minutes and 33 seconds!
This record remains unsurpassed for the option of passing the northern Wall of Eger with Free Solovet.

Ahlo about yourself:
"It all started with the Northern Wall of Eger, which I first broke in 1995 with a friend Markus. In 2004 - after several climbing - I first broke her" solo ", for 10 hours. After that, I do not have from my head Thomas Bubendorfer (Thomas Bubendorfer) went out - 4 hours 50 minutes; and Christoph Hayntz (Christoph Heinz) - 4 hours 30 minutes. Just incredible results! I needed twice as much time. Since then, I began to seriously work on myself.
In subsequent years, I climbed a lot of Solo, and although I had no idea how to beat the record, I didn't really worry me - I just wanted to climb faster. The result is 3 hours 45 minutes gave me strength. However, I was still far from my limit. For a whole year, I trained and reduced time until 2:47.
"

Video from a high-speed record climbing usshi cum in 2008 on the northern Wall of Eger:

Editors:
"The history of the Soloves on the North Wall of Eger was opened in 1963 by the Swiss Michel Darbele.

In 1974, Reinhard Messen put the recovery speed record at 10 o'clock.
On February 13, 2008, Swiss Uli Strek reached the vertex on the northern wall in 2 hours and 47 minutes, thereby beats the previous record for 3 hours 54 minutes, set as a year earlier.
On August 6, 2008, the famous climber broke the solo alone along the northern Wall of Eger without insurance, using a paraches of a paraches for a besjumping, and after the climbing, Dean jumped with a parachute.
For its approach to the mountaineering and willingness to abandon their own plans for the save of a like-minded person, as well as for achievements in sports, Eiger Award was awarded to achieve in Sports Austrian.

route "Paciencia" 8a on the North Wall of Eger

It is noteworthy that it began to work on this route and Stefan in 2003, but then they could only go to the mark "Rote Fluh", above which used IT technique.
In 2009, Oli rose to his first eight-year-old - Gasherbruum II, and although the climb passed under the standard route, Ulya made it in a speed-style style and without any third-party help. This climbing Uli used as a starting site for his next project: climbing the eight-thousand meter of Makalu in the fall of the same year.
It is noteworthy that Nicole came to Gasherbrum II, the honeymoon with which he spent on the rocks of Yosemite (USA), passing in a pair of 41 rope classic route "Golden Gate" on El Captain just a month before departure to Pakistan .
In the climbing on Gasherbruum II Uli planned to climb to the top along with Nicole, however, due to unstable and bad weather, he decided to come to the assault alone, Nicole was waiting for his return in a high-alone camp.

In the fall of 2009, Oil rises on a classic route to his second eight-thousandth -.
Ahlo about yourself:
"The risk is always, but I will not climb the route, if not sure about one hundred percent readiness. But even in this case I'm not insured against breakdown. It all depends on the skill."
The following years of Uli focused his strength on the eighties and the mountains of the Himalayas. In other words, he did not forget about his home Alps, so in 2010 Uli passes in high-speed ascent, setting a record of 2 hours 8 minutes, the North Wall of the Mount Le Drourat (Les Droites).
In 2011, the Uli returns to Himalayas with an ambitious project: the passage for one expedition of three eight thousands: Shishapungum, Cho-Oyu Everest!
As acclimatization in front of these climbing uli, in a pair with Freddie Wilkinson rises to the tops of Cholatze and the lobes.
In the climbing on Shishapangmu Uli sets the solo ascent record, passing the standard route for only 10.5 hours!
The next eight thousand was cho - ohu, I was climbed by Uli in a pair with Don Bowie, also according to the standard route.
However, the third vertex - Everest did not submit to Uli: Being only 150 meters from the top, he was forced to abandon climbing, due to the risk of frostbite.
In the next, 2012, Uli rises to his fifth eight-thousandths: Everest, the ascent passes through a standard route from the South, Nepalese side, and the Nepali Sherpa Sherpa (Tenji Sherpa) becomes his partner for climbing (Tenji Sherpa), which will become his regular partner in the Himalayan climbing.

Returning from Nepal, Ulya decides to try another type of high-speed mountaineering: a climbing-paragneer transition along the route Alps Trilogy: Jungfrau, Mongi and Eiger.
In a couple with Marcus, Zimmerman he managed to go through this way for only 12 hours 15 minutes.
Details about this project Uli you can read in our article:

2013 Started for Coca Uzka with a very unpleasant event, which turned into world news, plunged in shock all the mountaineering community!
The reason for this was the conflict on the highest mountain in the world - Everest, to which Ulya and his partners and came to the target ascent on the new route.
On April 27, 2013, coming out of the second high-rise camp, the top of the mountaineers fell into a conflict with a group of Nepalese Sherp, which rip the climbing route. The result of this conflict was terrible and even dangerous to the life of climbers.
"At that moment, when I realized that Sherpi want to kill me, the whole world collapsed for me" - Such words described his sad experience on the slopes of Everest in 2013, the famous Swiss mountaineer Uli Stack (Ueli Steck) on the pages of her new book: "The Next Step".
"After that, my mind has changed to the world ... I decided to leave Everest because I could no longer trust anyone"- spoke Ulya.
However, already after a couple of years, Ulyas could not overcome his craving for the Himalayas and returned to Everest, as it turned out, his last in life grief ...
Editors:
Recall that in the Incident on Everest in the spring of 2013, you can read in detail in our articles:
2. Emotional report of Jonathan Griffith:
And numerous interviews, one of which we led on our website:
In addition, a few months later, an interview was published by one of the Sherpi, who participated in the conflict: We were interviewed in the article:
And only six months after unprecedented events ,.
In the fall of 2013, Olya again, for the third time it returns in his long-standing purpose: an attempt to climb on the top of the eight-thousandths of Annapurna.
And on October 9, the famous Swiss climber climbed the solo in the southern wall of Annapurna.
It was an outstanding climbing in world mountaineering - Uli Sht became the first person in the world, alone rising in the southern slope of the peak Annapurna!

It should be noted that the climbing of Stockht Stark is met by unanimous recognition from the climbing public, some critics said that the head of the ultrasound did not go to the top of Annapurna.
You can read more about this criticism in our article:
This climbing uli was so unique and outstanding in the history of mountaineering, that all the media crushed about him.
Some climbers began to grant doubts about the successful climbing of the Il.
It is worth noting that the critical comments towards Stark's Ustyki sounded not for the first time, earlier, he was reproached in the "Olympic" approach to the mountaineering, when the spirit of the mountaineering is put in the chapter and the sprint race, for which by the way Ulya Plock and got his nickname "Swiss car".
With this criticism, magazines, mountain guides and German climbers were mainly performed.
In 2017, a month before the tragic death of Cum Ulibek, in the international mountaineering community, the criticism of the climbing uli cums in the Himalayas broke out with a new force.
So, quite recently, at the international level, in the framework of the 25th ceremony of presenting a prestigious climbing award: a kind of Oscar in the world of mountaineering: "Golden Luxury" (Piolets D "Or 2017), the question was raised about the lack of evidence of the climbing uli to the tops of the eight-thousanders.
You can read more about this in our article:

Uli Steck (Ueli Steck) on the nicknamed "Swiss car". After climbing Annapurn

Ascent to Annapurna, despite criticism, became legendary in climbing history and not surprisingly what for him
In 2014, Fihlleben Michi Wohlleben (Michlleben) was performed in history (Michi Wohlleben), the first northern walls of the Thre Cime Di Lavaredo (Tre Cime Di Lavaredo) in the Italian dolomite alps.

Their climb passed through three routes (one for each of the walls) in the amount of only 16 hours!
2014 for Uli was overshadowed by a big tragedy when he paired with Benedict Bomom tried to rise to the eight-thousandth of Shishapungum.
September 24, 2014, 6:55 am local time: five climbers rise to 7900 meters to the top of the eight-year-old Shishabangm (Shisha-Pangma, 8027 m), when avalanche is formed under their feet ...
The victim climbers: Sebastian Haag (Martin Maier) and Martin Martin (Martin Maier) from Germany and Italian Andrea Zambaldi (Andrea Zambaldi) were carried out avalanche for several hundred meters below the slope.
Two other climbers: German Benedict Bom (Benedikt Böhm) and Swiss Uli Schlock (Ueli Steck), miraculously avoided avalanche, remaining on the mountainside.
In this tragedy, 36 Summer Sebastian Haag and 32 Summer Andrea Zamfaldi died, Martin Mayer was able to get out of his avalanche and descend to a high-altitude camp, where Sherpi and climbers from other expeditions were saved.
Benedict Bom and Ulya Shtt, avoiding the strike of avalanche on their own descended into a high-altitude camp.
The moment of avalanche on Shishapangme: who was where
In 2015, Olya again comes to his grief - the North Wall of Eger, at which heckmayer rises in the high-speed ascent, setting a new speed record: 2 hours 22 minutes and 50 seconds!
Ahlo about yourself:
"I am much more convenient to run to the top in a fast pace than to fly for several days, such a tempo gives me new challenges. And I would like to go through this path completely. After all, we all live in the insane world, the world where you immediately ask you for outstanding ascent: a What's next?
I will ask and answer this question, it is possible for some time to calm the rest. Today I no longer need to collect a collection of all eight-thousandths of the world, first of all, I am interested in difficult walls, new routes. "

In his interview with 2016, Uli talked about the risks of ascent on the eight-thousandths:
In the spring of 2016 Uli Shtte and German climber David Ghettler (David Göttler) outlined an ambitious task :.
The descent from the top was planned on the northern side of the mountain, that is, the new route was to be created with a complete transition of the top of the eight-grain.
However, their goal was never achieved, the team stopped at a mark of 7,800 meters, further to the top of them did not let the bad weather. Moreover, in the first attempt, they climbed the Spanish route 1995 "Corredor Girona" to a mark of 7800 meters, the next time they rose to the British route 1982 to 7600 meters.
You can read more about this expedition in our article:

Recall that this pair of climbers put an ambitious task :. The descent from the top was planned on the northern side of the mountain, that is, the new route was to be created with a complete transition of the top of the eight-grain.

2017 should have become an ultralique for ultrasound no less significant than previous incredible climbing.
About your project: Eight-thousandnest traverses Everest - Lhotz, he mentioned in an interview in the fall of 2016, after he returned from Indian Himalayas, where he climbed with his wife to the top of the Schivling Mountain (this 6543 meter peak with a complex climbing relief lies in the north of India) As an anniversary of the wedding.
In December 2016, I would love the details of my plan, saying that the expedition will pass in the Alpine style and without the use of oxygen cylinders.

Editors:
Note that for the first time the traverse vertices Everest - Lhotz was passed by the Swiss expedition in 1956. You can read more about this story in our article:

In his expedition to Uli invited his comrade - 24 Summer Nepali Sherpea Sherpa (Tenji Sherpa), who was already rising to the top of Everest in 2012 and made it climbing without the use of oxygen cylinders.
"The trendies belong to the new generation of Nepalese Sherp, for whom the climb of the top is not only a business, but to a greater degree - mountaineering."- spoke Ulya, "I look forward to the start of the expedition, when I can climb a pair with a trendie"
In front of this complex expedition of Olyas, a lot was trained in the Alps and in Nepal, and as acclimatization overcame a total of about 250 kilometers with a total set of height of 15,000 meters.

Editors:
For more than 10 years, Simon Trachel was the compiler of the training program of Shakh Uli, exercising parallel to work as a coach of professional teams on ski racing. For Uli, who trains as an Olympic champion, Simon has developed a special program that combines trailing, strength development, freeride, mountaineering and climbing. Simon explains that "the program provides a high workload for the development of endurance, but recently it also includes a decent part of specific training for increasing strength."
Olya training without stopping, with accuracy as Swiss Machine. Uli told Magazine "L" Equipe "about his preparation before leaving for Everest:" I need to know that my body is strong, otherwise I am not in my plate. "For your current project, Plock trained within 1200 hours only last year: 80.000 Metters of the height of heights vertically, 848km occasionals and 296 hours of special training for increasing the strength of their hands and legs. While he was in the Valley of Khumba to acclimatize, in 13 days Swiss overcame 236km with a drop in 16,200 meters.
The key of a new adventure is stamina, which, however, does not exclude less important components as speed and accuracy. The goal justifies training.

About their workouts and preparations for Everest Study, told in his last interview, which you can read on our website:
The death of the streets of Cherk
First of all, before reviewing the tragedy, we will give the conversion of the Family Family Coc:
"The Alpinist family has already reported that he is located to endless sadness in connection with his death and that she asks to abandon any speculation and speculation related to the circumstances of his death and that the relatives themselves are currently not ready to provide any additional information. "
So, Everest 2017. A few days before the tragedy, Uli Sht and Shtie Sherpa ended the acclimatization program, rising both to the neighboring vertices and according to the standard everest route.
During one of these outputs, the trendies got frostbite and was forced to leave the Everest base camp for a while and descend, to restore forces and health to the Valley of Khumbu.
Left alone, Ulyas continued to skate and a couple of days before the tragedy, made a light and fast climbing on the standard height route at 7,000 meters on Everest.
About this he wrote his last post in Facebook:
"The high-speed climb from the base camp to 7000 meters and back in one day! I adore these mountains, they are huge here. I still believe in the active program of acclimatization, it is much more effective than spending long night in high-altitude camps"- Posted Uli April 26, 4 days before his death.

April 30 in the morning (about 8-9 am local time). Ahhu went to the acclimatization climbing early in the morning, according to his own words he shared the day before this exit, the mountain was in good condition: not too much snow and not as cold as it could be.
The accident itself occurred at a mark of 7,200 meters, where the route goes to the rock. As a result, the accident has fallen down the slope of 1000 meters.
Several people saw the fall of the streets, and soon his body was discovered a little below the second high-rise camp, at a rate of 6400 meters along the route of climbing Nuppze.
On the unanimous solution of the whole family
Uli Sht was a man who mercilessly drove himself all the time forward, and this he realized perfectly clearly. That is why he paid so much time insurance and security, and he did not make the main bid at all on hoozy, ropes and carbines.
He was confident that in the mountains, and in general in life, the human factor is in the first place, and that is why he grinded without tired, honed and improved all his already already superhuman abilities.
All this turned him into an outstanding athlete and in a shining guide for a whole generation of young super climbers who have long been trying to defeat even the mountains, but themselves.
Uli Plight was afraid of death, given that he had already had a couple of possibilities to look into her tin eyes. And then ... Who would have thought that the brilliant racer Michael Schumacher would be a victim at first view of the routine ski riding? And who would have thought that a similar blow of fate awaits a similar blow to Stock?
He knew that sooner or later, simply according to the laws of statistics, a serious misfortune would happen to him. But death on the slope of Mount Nupzze last Sunday? He did not plan this and died, committing the most common climbing.
It was an outstanding Swiss and a great climber.
The chronology of the main ascents of Stockht Stark:

1995 Eiger, North Wall, Route "Heckmair" (1800m ED).
1998 meh, "Kuluar Khston" solo in 3.5 hours (1000m ED-).
1999 Eiger on Laupuer, Solo for 5 hours (1800m, ED-).
2000 Eiger, Northern Wall, second passage of the Yeti route (7C / A0).
2001 meh, northern wall, Diretissima's first position (1000m, M5 / Wi5).
2001 Pumori, First Bühler, a new route on a western slope (1400m, M4 / 80 °).
2001 Gran Joras along the route "Valkher", Winter Passage (1200m, ED).
2001 Eiger, First Route on the North Wall: "Thewear Spider" (1800m, M7 / Wi6; 7a / A2).
2002 Mount Dickey, Alaska, first position (1700m, M7 + AI6 5.9 / A1).
2002 Attempting of the first route on the northern wall of Jean in Two with Erhard Loretan.
2003 Another attempt on Jean's indispensable wall with Erhard Loretan.
2003 Punta Heron, Patagonia.
2003 Redpoint on the La Vida Es Silbar route on Eiger Independence (900m, 7C).
The 2004 trilogy "Eiger-Mong-Jungfrau" in a twice with Stefan Siegrista, for one day.
2005 "Khumbu-Express" Solo-Parrice of the Eastern Wall of the tack (6515m) and the indent of Cholatze (6440m).
2006 Solo-passage of North Walls Matterhorn, Eger and the first winter passage (solo !!!) Route "The Young Spider" on Eiger.
2006 First ofwarding the northern wall of Gasherbruum II (7772 m).
2007 North Wall Eger, Absolute Speed \u200b\u200bRecord 3:54. Solo!
2008 North Wall Eger, new absolute speed record 2:47:33. Solo!
2008 Northern Wall Grand Joras, Absolute Speed \u200b\u200bRecord Route "Colton Makintyre" 2:21. Solo!
2009 North Wall Matterhorn, Absolute Speed \u200b\u200bRecord 1:56. Solo.
2009 solo climbing Hasherbruum II (7772m)
2009 Makalu, classic.
2010 Northern Wall of Drua, Absolute Speed \u200b\u200bRecord, Route "Zhina" 2:08. Solo!
2011 Shishapangm, South Wall. 10:30. Solo
Cho Oyu, SZ (classic). Solo 18 days after Solo on Shishapanchma
2012 Everest from the south by classics, oxygen
2013 Annapurna, South Wall. 28 hours. Solo
2014 first winter passage of three northern walls of Tre Chima in one way out with Mihi Slachleben
2015 Northern Wall Eger, Absolute Speed \u200b\u200bRecord: 2:22:50! Solo!
2016 Shiveng, Indian Himalayas, ascent to the top in a pair with her wife Nicole

Awards and Awards St Creem Awards:

2008: Eiger Award Prize for Mountaineering Technology.
2009: The Golden Luxury Award for Parishment, in a pair with Simon Anthamatten, a new route along the northern wall of the Tengkampoche (Tengkampocche)].
2010: Karl Unterkircher Prize (ITAL. KARL UNTERKIRCHER) for versatile climbing achievements.
2014: The second Golden Luxury Prize for a single climb on Annapurna in southern wall.
2015: National Geographic Adventureruen magazine Prize.

Reprinting material to other resources is possible only with the permission of the site administration!

Family of St Cum's Family spends the evening ( Gedenkfeier) his memory in Interlaken on May 24, in Congress Center Kursaal Interlaken.
Below - give two articles from SwissInfo

The Swiss super-climber Uli Sht has entered the story due to his unforgettable and unique achievements in the field of single high-speed climbing. The one who believes that records were the meaning and appointment of his whole life, is deeply mistaken. At the same time, it is obvious that, ultimately, he turned himself into a real car operating as an eliminated Swiss clock mechanism. And in this sense, Plock was and will remain the perfect type of real Swiss.
(AFP)

Uli Sht, who died last week in Himalayas, was for Swiss a living embodiment of all those qualities that, in the opinion of external observers, and constitute the basis of unique Swiss identity. He was successful, diluted and modest, he was a man, not inclined to exaggerate the scale of his achievements. Yes, he had progress in the asset, but this is just because he had a nicely worried about it and received the full right to his 15 minutes of glory. Ulya Sht was a very modest man.

By oneself

In addition, he just brightly embodied all the values \u200b\u200bthat we, the Swiss, love to attribute to themselves. It was accurate in the literal sense of "to the millimeter". It was opened to the world, flexible and possessed the talent of a fast and carefully calculated response. Finally, Uli Sht was the most real inborn single. If he forced himself to join some alliances or unions, then only when this was required by the project conditions in which he participated completely voluntarily. He had many friends and there was not a single enemy. He was respected by everyone who he faced at least once, not to mention those with whom he worked on an ongoing basis.

Not surprising, therefore, his tragic death has become a real shock for Switzerland. After him, thousands of people were left with whom he met anyway or came across the Swiss Alps. Where the usual tourist hard dragged to the top, hanging out and brushing out the sweat from his forehead, there was an ultrasound Plenty easily on his trained feet, canceling how many people seemed to be, the law of world community, and at the same time a couple of postulates and constants. At the same time, he never looked into the nose, overtaking his fellow citizens, he was always politely and kindly welcomed them, as it demands an inexorable Swiss etiquette.

Often he spent public lectures in which he told about his plans and views on life and which were one of its sources of its income - and these conversations in the style of "alone with all" have always been sustainable. Uli Plock was a talented storyteller, while he never lost the ability to critically evaluate himself too.

Motives and landmarks

The main motive of the life of the streets of Sto was not constant hunting for meters and records. He just liked to work on himself, put the goal before his body and invent ways to achieve them. For this, he endlessly improved both its purely physical form and climbing technique. He especially liked the fitness classes, for whom he adhered to, for example, a tough diet, completely rebuilding his system of burning fats and carbohydrates in order to, as it was presented, to high-qualityly increase his sports efficiency. There was nothing new in this, but in the end, he really managed to widely push the horizons of the possible, and this is how it is impossible to answer His nature, because Uli Plek bowed to the same extent before, it would seem endless, the possibilities of the human body, Which he admired the mountains, the best of which, as you know, can only be the mountains on which there has not been!

And so, step by step, he began to conquer such vertices and conquer such spaces that were already outside common sense and rational human mind. Such an attraction was the high-speed climbing, which turned into his distinctive brand, in its brand, which became its "skate". Many simply swung their heads in bewilderment, considering the high-speed records of Stockht Stark as an expression of his pride, self-confidence and even eccentric egoism. Many believed that thereby he violates the philosophy, initially lying on the basis of the relations of the mountains and the Swiss, and the main principles of which were calm, work, inspiration and respect for eternal heights, against which anyone, even the most "significant" person involuntarily looks Small and lost. Olya, Shtt did not particularly draw attention to all these commandments, turning the legendary northern wall of the Higher Mountain to the distance, which it turns out to be overcome by just 2 hours and 22 minutes.

(SRF-SWI)
Uli Sht was a man who mercilessly drove himself all the time forward, and this he realized perfectly clearly. That is why he paid so much time insurance and security, and he did not make the main bid at all on hoozy, ropes and carbines. He was confident that in the mountains, and in general in life, the human factor is in the first place, and that is why he grinded without tired, honed and improved all his already already superhuman abilities. All this turned him into an outstanding athlete and in a shining guide for a whole generation of young super climbers who have long been trying to defeat even the mountains, but themselves.

Next to extremal

And then the question arises - what to do next to a person who has developed his abilities so that for him a rise to the top of 4 thousand meters has long been turned into a Sunday journey? And only one thing remains to do it - to transfer the border the possible further and further, to put the goals in front of you are increasingly incredible and impossible. There was no other alternative here and could not be. This is what the laws of sports were required - and marketing!

Little risk, greater endurance, more significant vertices - so it formulated his main task for himself. Uli Plight was afraid of death, given that he had already had a couple of possibilities to look into her tin eyes. And then ... Who would have thought that the brilliant racer Michael Schumacher would be a victim at first view of the routine ski riding? And who would have thought that a similar blow of fate awaits a similar blow to Stock? He knew that sooner or later, simply according to the laws of statistics, a serious misfortune would happen to him. But death on the slope of Mount Nupzze last Sunday? He did not plan this and died, committing the most common climbing. It was an outstanding Swiss and a great climber.

Ulya Plek about illusions, speed and heroism

(John Heilprin / Swissinfo.ch)

Two weeks ago, the Great Swiss Mountaineer Uli Shtki died. We first publish an exclusive interview with him, made in Basel in 2010.

Grammar requires the past time - "was", "Lazal", "passed", but the mind of Bastuet and completely refuses to believe. Do I ever see I will never see a street? Well, at least on speeches, where he told about his crazy take-offs on top, illustrating their photos and videos. After all, this is how we met eight years ago: a minute before the start of the Slide Show Cum, I ran into the crowded room, all places are busy, the public is waiting, only one young man, slender and inconspicuous, stood between the ranks.

Confident that he is a Swiss analogue of grandmother-tickets of St. Petersburg theaters, I rushed in despair for help. Quiet, it seems, even silently, he spent me through the entire hall on the only free place (in the first row!), And then rose to the stage and turned out to be ... Ulya Plek. On the same evening, admired and fascinated, and not only records, but also by human qualities, I asked him an interview. In March 2010, I left Zurich to Basel - to meet with the most cool extreme mountaineer in the world.

Solo. In a free fall

Swiss Uli Sht - superman: it makes it impossible. It climbs without oxygen cylinders on the rocks, on ice, in a combined area, on the sheer walls at such an altitude, where most professional climbers begins a mountain disease. He opens up new routes in the mountains and prefers to pass the most difficult of them alone - solo. It rarely enjoys insurance and puts world records in the speed of ascent.

I am waiting for a stamphi fishing in a private park under the Basel - in the pavilion of a rectangular design that is fully consisting of glass. No walls, everything is transparent, and I can consider Uli, without being seen. It approaches the car with Bernish numbers, coming out, hanging the bag on the shoulder, and goes to the side of the pavilion a very characteristic gait, as if the law of attraction on a special agreement is weaker thanks it from the ground. In the park under Basel, the wind prompts long, trying to get into the slot of the glass pavilion. Plug enters, enjoying cold.

Nevertheless, Sht does not take a sleeping bag even when he goes to Himalayas and spends the tops on tops into the thirty-graduce frost. In pursuit of speed, it refuses the most necessary - provisions, sleeping bag or safety rope. The less weight, the faster the rise. Fews can boast that they were on an eight-year-old.

Frozen?

Yes, frozen. I love when warm!

What do you feel when you stand on top? And in general - how are there upstairs?

At such a height, it is clear, less oxygen, the air is more discharged, it is harder, besides cold. Not only athletes can rise to the eight-year-old. You can buy a commercial tour. Therefore, it is not only in the altitude, on which the top is located. The thing is how to choose the route, what to climb the wall. I choose the most difficult or those for which no one has ever walked.

The climbing on the last eight-year-old (of fourteen in the world) was committed in 1964, in those years the most important was the maximum height, the route was chosen the easiest. To date, in the mountaineering, completely different trends - extreme climbers attract complexity and inaccessibility.

And the feeling of loneliness?

Yes, it is, because I go alone, solo. In such cases, you realize that a person cannot equate himself to nature. When you are on a wall in two thousand meters, spend the night in it, you realize how magnificent mountain peace and nature, as far as they are powerful.

Why do you prefer solo ascents?

This is the most serious test.

And this is not too frivolous - constantly risking life, feeling fate?

I live very hard and perfectly realize what it means to live. What will happen to us tomorrow, none of us knows, including you. Feeling full of security - illusion. I learned this in the mountaineering, because it constantly put myself danger. But I did it not frivolously, on the contrary, I always knew what risk I am. The degree of risk in the mountaineering can be calculated, it is important to be well prepared.

Weather forecasts in our time are very accurate.

But, probably, not in the Himalayas.

In the Himalayas, much better than in Switzerland! Even their predictions in Switzerland are more accurate than our local ... Much can be predicted. Perhaps, from the side of my "experiments" really look frivolny, but it is not. I am a typical Swiss, very careful, organized, correct. For example, to climb on such a route as an Eccalibur, an ordinary person seems to be madness.

I first seemed absolutely smooth wall, then I began to study it and saw that she had a structure, irregularities for which you can cling to. I mentally created myself a plan, and in the end, I did not think what movement was done. I could do this path with your eyes closed, I knew all the difficult places by heart and could draw them on a sheet of paper. Good preparation gives a sense of complete control over the situation.

Concentration becomes meditation

Exalibibur - three hundred fifty meters of rock wall in Bern high mountain. Before you climb without insurance and alone Ilock Shtt five times rose back there with insurance, studying every step, every roughness of the stone, clutching the rock, as the doctor closes the patient's chest. During the rise on Exalibur, he was so concentrated that there was simply no place for any thoughts, except for those that calculated the next step. There are situations where there is only a second, only - now!

At such moments, the concentration becomes meditation. In solo style, you can always - in the extreme case - to cling to the hook and wait for help; In the style of Free Solo there are no auxiliary means, the calculation is only on their own forces. For this, not only brilliant physical training is needed, but, above all, a flexible psyche that can instantly adapt to different situations.

Sulna was observed on exalibour for Uli. In training rates, he took salt for them, and over time, animals became almost hand and fit very close - half meter. These several Serne committed a rise together with Ulyas and together with him went down to exalibour. But they could not worry on the route of the extreme climbers - they are excellent climbers, but not so tenacious as the stl. In a small cave in the cliff of exalibur, he left his jade amulet - a gift of a jeweler's friend - in gratitude to Mount for the fact that the extremely complex and dangerous rise was successful.

I have the impression that you are almost pampeting the mountains, they are not just stones for you, but something living.

For me, all nature is alive, the mountains is not just a dead mass. I take the mountains with deep respect.

What mountains do you associate a special relationship with?

Each is attractive in its own way. But I know that I can not conquer every vertex on Earth - I just don't have enough time. Why I go exactly on some kind of defined mountain, it is difficult to say, it depends on many factors, including from accidents. Sometimes the mountains are attractive for me, on which I was not, maybe even never seen. Sometimes, on the contrary, the mountains with whom I have already built relationships - for example, Macal or Annapurna.

Not requiring award

Annapurna in Himalayas - the first mountain-eight-year-old on which the climb was committed. There I was twice, and both times he had to interrupt the expedition. In 2007, because of the stone who fallen on him, to smithers who broke a protective helmet, he lost consciousness and fell as many as three hundred meters. In 2008, due to one tragic history in Himalayas on the southern wall Annapurna.

Uli Plock and his Swiss a friend-climber, with whom he was preparing the first climbing wall, were in the base camp, when they were called from above, from a height of seven and a half thousand meters, and asked for help. In the Spaniard of Inyaki Ochoa and his comrade for the expedition, Horia Kolibassen began a mountain disease. The helicopter caused to save Inyaki and Horia could not fly above the base camp, he vibrated and with difficulty retained to not tip over the gorge.

Uli Sht took dexhemetazone and began to wade up the night, in the night, in the snowfall. When after three days, failing in the snow, rising by three thousand meters, he reached climbers, I could not move. Two days of the streets melted snow, she saw him and made him injections, consulting in touch with the doctor in Switzerland. But the Spaniard helped nothing. When Inyaki died, Uli Sht buried him, throwing the body into crevices.

For assistance to climbers and other members of the international expedition (of which several Russians) and Sherpi received the Gold Medal of the Spanish Government "For Merit in Sport". Another award was awarded W. Blue in 2009 - French Order "Piolet D'Or", Mountaineering Oscar.

You have a few awards, isn't it? For example, the Medal of the Spanish government.

I have not seen her eyes. This is completely normal when you are upstairs, and the person was there in trouble, you need to help him. It was I should help - this is my personal opinion. I did not go to the award, it is not interested at all. It is unthinkable that the help can be awarded, some kind of problem of our society lies in this.

But you had to interrupt your project in the Himalayas, he demanded great preparation! And for a long time in very difficult conditions climbed to Inyaki upstairs!

Three days I went upstairs and spent two days with him.

Another your reward is Aiger. You got it for a speed record on the northern wall. What does this mountain mean for you?

Iger for me is a special mountain, I was there for so many times. Once thirty - I mean only the northern wall. And so I have a lot of impressions from Aiger, different, but very positive, and it gives a feeling of something well acquaintance. Great feeling! Ager is a mountain on which I feel at home.

Speed. In pursuit of speed

Ager is one of the three standing nearby famous Mountains of Bern Oberland - Aiger, Mone and Jungfrau. From the top of Jungfrau takes the greatest in Europe Gutchcher - Alets, the glacier desert in a length of twenty-four kilometers. On Jungfrau leads the most highly mountainous railway in Europe, it is partly in part and determined the popularity of the Northern Wall of Aiger. It is also called the "Wall of Death". After all, this is the most complex route in the Alps, requiring not so much climbing stone, how much ice climbing, completely special technique.

After another death case, when trying to conquer Aiger, Berkin Court even introduced a ban on the rise on the northern wall. True, after a few months he was canceled. Only the most experienced climbers can conquer Aiger. At the same time, the rise takes about two days. They spend the night, tied with safety ropes, sitting on small ledges, which the wall carefully prepared for their rare guests.

In 2003, one Southern Tyrolese rose on the northern wall of Aiger for four and a half hours, and this forced Uli Khka to think about how a thousand eight hundred meters of rocks and ice could overcome for such a short time. In February 2007, he climbed onto the wall twice in order to study it better, then he made a rise in the classical route "Hecmeyer" and achieved record time - 3 hours 54 minutes!

After analyzing their record, Ulyas understood that he did not use his capabilities to the maximum. He was preparing for the next climb - and it became a sensation. Refusing a safety rope (saving on weight and on time, which is spent on insurance) and, loses of five kilograms, the stitch literally takes off on the "Wall of Death", having breaking his own record - in 2 hours, 47 minutes, 33 seconds.

Uli Plek is famous for the speed of complementary routes. By the way, the two published "National Geographic" books about Uli and are called "Speed" and "Solo". For lifting to the North Wall of Aiger, there are thirty-three routes, and one of them opened Uli with another famous Swiss climber Stefan Siegrist. This is the most direct and most complex route.

When you look at the pictures on which you cling to the sheer cliffs above the precipice, it seems that you are a fearless hero, right James Bond. Do you know what fear is?

I am a very rapid man. Fear is an important feeling. If a person does not feel fear, he can overestimate and make a mistake that can cost him life. Fear helps to survive, especially in our profession, helps to prepare well for the campaign, correctly assess the situation. But I am really very careful and, in fact, even fearful. Here you laugh, but this is exactly the case. Even - in everyday life! I am a typical Swiss, I look very responsible for security questions, it is related to different types of social insurance and pension fund or thoughts about the future.

On a bike in the helmet ride?

Well, no, not so much. But, for example, it's terribly afraid to walk on dark catcakes in cities.

But you can always escape.

Yes, I run quickly.

What do you especially appreciate when returning from hiking in the mountains?

Probably comfort, especially when I return home from a long expedition. Do not freeze, choosing in the morning from the bed, drink a cup of warm coffee - it's great! But then the moment comes when I have to get out of the comfort zone when I have to leave. Because staying at home is too easy. This is not for me.

In solo style

Pieces It's time to leave: it is necessary to prepare for the performance, which will soon begin in the hall of the glass pavilion. These reports in which pictures significantly expressive words are its main earnings. We say goodbye, and he thanks me for coming to Basel.

I went to the exit on the central track of the private park in English style, a high gate with an iron wrought-iron grid. They were tightly closed, and I had to find a place where the brick fraction of the gate was connected with a wire fence. And, although I was confident that the entrance to the park was viewed by camcorders, I turned around and, making sure that no one had no one, climbed through the fence. Solo-style and without insurance.