Rock climbing rock climbing is a sport and outdoor activities - a hobby, which is in climbing on the natural (rock) or artificial (climb) relief. Binding as a kind of mountaineering, sports climbing is currently - an independent sport.
The disciplines of sports climbing, according to which international competitions are held: climbing on difficulty, climbing for speed and bowlding.
Lazain on difficulty.
The goal of the Lazanian process is to rise to the top of the route - Top. Climbing is given a small amount of time (as a rule, 5-6 minutes) to view the track, during which the athletes think of each other, as in the chess party, after which they take turns to try to crawl the track. The participant is given one attempt. As a rule, there is a time limit (from 4 to 15 minutes). For the next round, the climbers are ranked depending on the height achieved.
This climbing discipline is "who above" - \u200b\u200benjoys great popularity around the world, and victories and achievements in this form are the most prestigious among climbers. The difficulty is a technically diverse and complex type of motor activity, requiring high organizations, collens, coordination, accuracy and accuracy of movements. Endurance and strength, flexibility and plastic, high intelligence - here are the constituent success in difficulties. Trails difficulties are classified by different categories from 4 seconds to 9 V.
Lazain on speed.
The speed originated in the Soviet Union in 1947 as climbing for a time ("who is faster") with the upper insurance and initially considered as auxiliary type of mountaineering. In the future, this climbing discipline was supplemented with climbing on a more complex relief, but, again, for a while. The speed of the speed was particularly popular in Russia and the countries of Eastern Europe, and today the speed is becoming increasingly popular and in Asian countries. The international competition routes are laid at a height from 10 to 27 meters. Lazain on speed is defined as climbing discipline in 1987 by the climbing commission at UIAA.
In 2005, a reference route was created to accelerate the inclusion of climbing into the Summer Olympic Games Program and most international competitions began to go on it. The 14th stage of the World Cup of 2012 entered the history of the world's world records, which athletes were installed along the tournament. Recall that before the beginning of the competition in Sinine, the best time for men belonged to the Chinese athlete Qixin Zhong and was 6.26 seconds. According to the results of the qualifications, the world record moved to Evgeny Waitzovsky - 6.07 seconds. Further more! In the 1/4 finals, the pupil of love Alexandrovna Stepanova Evgeny Vaitskhovsky once again updated the world record - showed time 5.94. But he did not stop at that - in the semifinals, he gave 5.88 seconds for 15 meters of reference route!
Bouldering (English Bouldering) - Climbing discipline - a series of short extremely complex trails (the number of interceptions from 4 to 12).
The name "Bouldering" comes from the English "Boulder" (Boulder), Bouldering - clown clouds.
At competitions held on the French system, for each track and rest between them are given a few minutes (usually 4-6). Athlete can use an unlimited number of attempts. On the track there is a bonus - intermediate finish and top - finish on the track. Gymnastic insurance and special mats are used - Crash Pada.
In popularity in the world, Bouldering successfully competes with climbing difficulty.
The proximity of the speakers (compared to other types of climbing) allows the audience better to see the emotions of athletes, charge their energy.
All official sports climbing competitions are on the climbers, to ensure the same conditions for the participation of athletes.
Rock climbing is a much more diverse sport, which may seem at first glance. There are three official sports disciplines (climbing for difficulty, climbing on speed and blending) and many other types of climbing, implying the overcoming of the trails both on artificial cliffroms and on the natural relief.
Lazain on speed
Lazain on speed is one of the most spectacular disciplines in. The purpose of the competition, as is clear from the name, is to overcome the route in the minimum time. Competition can be carried out both in the format of individual climbing and in the format of a pair race. Because The height of the route can be several tens of meters, upper insurance is used.
Lazain on speed originated in the Soviet Union in 1947 and at first was considered exclusively as auxiliary type of mountaineering. Subsequently, climbing at speed gained more popularity and in 1987 it was approved by the climbing commission at UIAA as a separate climbing discipline.
In order to accelerate the inclusion of rock climbing into the number of Olympic sports, in 2005 a reference route was developed, on which most competitions take place today.
Lazain on difficulty
Climbing for difficulty is the most popular climbing discipline, and achievements are considered the most prestigious. The purpose of the competition is to get to the top, for which an athlete is given a certain amount of time (as a rule, from 4 to 15 minutes). With climbing, lower insurance is applied to difficulty. Competition participants are ranked depending on the height or time of the route.
In Lazania, not only power, endurance and plastic, but also intelligence are required for difficulty from an athlete. Before passing the climbing route, they look at it and think over every move. Error at the planning stage of its actions can cost very expensive.
Bouldering
This type of climbing was invented by the city of Boulder, from which he received its name. "Boulder" is translated from English as a boulder. Accordingly, Bouldering is clown clinches. This town in Colorado is notable for the fact that in its vicinity there are many stone blocks a few meters high. From Lazania on these blocks and modern bowlding competitions have grown.
Bouldering is overcoming a series of short, but very complex tracks. On the track and vacation athlete gives a limited amount of time and an unlimited number of attempts. Gymnastic insurance and crashpad applied. Bouldering competitions are usually carried out on the climbers, and not on the natural relief.
In addition to the above-mentioned sports disciplines of climbing, such varieties such as:
- Solo - cliffs on the rocks alone with self-insurance;
- FREE SOLO - cliffs alone without insurance;
- DWS, Deep Water Solo - Lazain without insurance over water;
- Trad or Traditional - climbing at unprepared rocks with the organization of its time points of insurance;
- Multipitch - climbing on routes having a length of more than one rope;
- Jumping - jumps on the hook;
- Onsight - passage of the track without prior to familiarize with it;
- Flash - passage of the route from the first attempt, but having information about it or after observing the other climbing;
- Red Point - the passage of the route after working on it and several attempts.
A quiet sapa reached the final, and in the final race I knocked out the unbearable Tsyganov. Tsyganova reacted emotionally to the defeat that Anuk did not wait for a squall of applause from the simulator, and prudently merged immediately, as soon as they were taken away from the rope. Men final race was no less dramatic.
Dmitry Timofeev and Sergey Sinitsyn fled to hand in hand.
Until the last interception, it was unclear who wins.
But here Serega for some reason thought: "I wonder, I win or lose?"
At that moment, Dima hit a clapboard.
Anuk Zoberer, France, 1st place
I'm so glad that I won! Especially specary that he won it here, in Russia, in the country of speeds. How did it happen? I do not know myself, it did not work today.Apparently, another time should take away.
Let the French think that they can win. Let them love speed :) In fact, with my preparation - ok.
After injuries recovered, but still not at the full coil train.
This is a type of test start. Check if everything is in place.
Feet in place, head like too.
The main start in July, the European Championship in Chamonix. The session must be closed, then I will go to Chinese commercial competitions.
We are three in Shanghai: I am, Levochkin and Sinitsyn.
Just the fees will be, but I refused the fees, because I break on them.
I'm better at home, where all your favorite, relatives. Then I will go to the Russian Bolding Championship, then in Chamonix, and I want to stay until September in Europe, on the rocks try to get something else and speak to Arco. How did you get here? "Dozen" shorter than the "spot", to train was a little simpler. Less chances to make a mistake than fifteen meters. Dozen, like a spin, go to me normally.
You come to the training session, you say to yourself: eight times.
I barely run as half.
Think: damn! Four more times! Forcing myself to do it. I scream eight times and for difficulty :) in competitive regime with partners in training do not run, I do not need it. I train Standard: Yoga, meat, I'm running. It used to run kilometers on twelve, and here four days before the start - the first time after the operation - the Crossik rang, Taapa was all sore ...
I live in a good area, we have a forest, you can run, uphill, from the mountain, there is a biathlon track, good, especially now, when warmed.
Before that, there is a slippery, then minus forty, not particularly raise.
And the body is ready. Basically, I try to drive weight.
You run 15 km, minus one and a half kilogram per jogging. Complaints what psychologically i put? Yes, probably there is such, but without it in any way.
And who finished? :) In general, there is no thought in my head: I'll break all! Just calmly and clearly everything.
And anyway, who and what you say or try to somehow knock out. For my three-four-year experience, the correct attitude was made: I listen to music, I look straight and that's it.
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Speed \u200b\u200bis such a form when any emotion can "fall out" you.
Any emotion reduces your concentration.
Because of this, I lost.
I took the last hook badly.
Because just started thinking about something. It is impossible to think at all. During climbing, you must be focused clean on the track. I climb, the start went cool, on the fourth hook of me a little more than usually, I was taken out, I should be pressed against the wall, and I was a little further. And I began some thoughts. Something went wrong, you start thinking, and I run at this time, run, thoughts have already started, the process has already gone, I run and before the very finish comes: "I wonder, I win or lose?"
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But she came, and I immediately took a hook.
One interception added, that is, I took it and grapted.
That's because of this, I lost.
If I hadn't donated her, I think I would have finished it.
What, I took and took, finish did.
Even broke, what's the difference? Either lost, or won, everything. Hit or miss. But not everything comes on time. Dozen easier to run. There are no spots in Yekaterinburg.
Now here is the twelve-meter track we can cheat. It will be easier to fifteen.
Pota, of course, I would like. It is necessary to work on it. In my competitive experience, despite the fact that there are little participated countries, the European Cup spent at a very high level. The European Cup stated in May last year, but it was put in the European calendar, and to watch the European calendar, you need to go to the European Union, then somewhere else, only there you will see the calendar, that is, to come there, you need to do ten clicks there.
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The people did not even know that there would be a cup. I think many would plan a trip. The French are well done, they arrived such a big delegation.
Won a male difficulty.
And this is this, in Russia!
Of course, I exaggerate, but nevertheless, you can say, in the enemy's mill, the main thing, because we are the leaders in this form, especially our girls, and she won, she is just well done, she can be put a monument. But we understand that, and many are not going to the details.
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Two coaches are engaged in the female team on high-speed climbing: Silvan Shapel - he was running with me, in pairs and TP, and as a second coach is called, - I do not remember. Both colorful appearance, one high, hairy, long, other small, bald, muscular. They are well done, at such a high level raised the speed in France, it is speed. Rock climbing in France has been developed above, it seems to me.
They have in the team now more than twenty speeds.
France is unique in this sense. By the way, in Europe the first who scored the team at speed is the Italians, they scored young to train them.
Leo Gonryo Last year, the World Cup has won the Arco's Cup, he is still a winner of the world championship. Of course, the general team is weaker than us, but it is clear, we have been cultivated this whole type of climbing, but the Europeans also do not stand still, grow, catch up.
Sponsors of the European Cup Companies
Accepted by the Board of the FSE 04.04.2009
Rules for the design and construction of climbers (climbing stands).
Authors: Bychkov Dmitry Anatolyevich Sklyarenko Dmitry Igorevich Arnaut Sergey Nikolaevich Sinyushin Nikolai Gennadievich Soloviev Alexey Vitalevich Ovchinnikov Evgeniy Vitalevich Levin Evgenij Iosifovich Bald Oleg Vasilyevich
Layoutskin Vladimir Aleksandrovich Malamid Vladimir Mendeleevich Tagunova Ruslan Aleksandrovna Krot Andrei Lvovich
Gusak Igor Vasilyevich Aristova Lyudmila Veniaminovna Garnets Anatoly Markovich International Association "Sports Facilities" FSUE "Institute of Public Buildings"
ROCK CLIMBING
Introduction
Climbing, as a sport, includes three main disciplines:
bouldering - a series of short problem tracks,
lazain on speed,
lazain on difficulty.
In the Russian Federation, the division of climbing competitions for four ranks was adopted:
International -official international climbing competitions.
Rank I. - All-Russian competitions among the various age groups included in the Regulations on All-Russian Competitions:
championships and Cups of Russia among adults on artificial relief;
russian championship;
russian Student Championships;
championships of the Armed Forces of Russia.
Rank II. – traditional Signal competitions at the level of federal districts included in the Regulations on All-Russian Competitions, having a rating ratio not lower 0.2 and the appropriate qualifications of the judicial collegium:
russian championships on the rocks;
championships and championship of federal districts;
zonal competitions;
open championships and championship of cities and subjects of the Russian Federation;
Rank III - All other competitions.
Definitions
The following definitions are used in the rules data text:
Climber Stand (SC) (SS): The climbing stand (climb) is an engineering structure consisting of specially made structures intended for various types of climbing and with the relevant structural characteristics, not intended specifically for any dedicated age group of users. The climbing stand may consist of several parts, each of which meets the requirements of various types of climbing. The reliefs of the surface of the majority of climbing stands are unique and not repeated. The exception is typical designs.
Upper insurance - This is an insurance in which the safety rope is fixed in two top of insurance or the upper insurance station.
Lower insurance - This is an insurance at which the climbing is consistently paints a safety rope into individual insurance points located on the track.
Gymnastic insurance - This is an insurance that the judge, coach or partner athlete organizes, supporting his body with his hands at the time of the fall. Applies only in bowldinga and climbing to the height of no more than 3 meters
Route: A part of the SS surface, designated for climbing on a specific route, is called the track.
SOP.
Climbing stands (climbers) are divided into several main types:
clutters for climbing and conducting competitions for speed;
clutters for climbing and conducting competitions for the speed on the reference tracks on which world records are recorded;
clutters for climbing and holding competitions for difficulty;
clutters for climbing and holding competitions in bowldinga;
clutters for training and sports climbing;
universal climbing stands (centers) combining elements of relief for various types of climbing;
traverse;
clutters installed in playgrounds.
The main types and styles of climbing in the hall and on the natural relief.
Climbing on natural relief
Difficulty - Lazaging long routes (over 40 meters) with insurance through stationary points of insurance. To learn how to climb difficulty, it is necessary to make a greater emphasis on the development of endurance.
FREE SOLO (Free Solo) - Free climbing - without insurance, without a partner, alone. Basically, this concept refers to long multipitles and large walls.
Dip Water Solo (Deep Water Solo) - Single climbing on rock routes towering over water. This type of climbing has developed in places where, most often, there were rock ledges in the sea. The height of the route athlete chooses itself, the insurance in this form is water.
Big Wall - Complex climbing climbing bundles, which can last a few days.
Multi-Pitch (Multi-Pitch) - A rock route that has inpatient insurance points and intermediate stations. Multipitch can be called extensive difficulty.
Mirror - So in mountaineering they call absolutely climbers, which are famous for the lack of auch and convenient sites for their own insurance (trad).
Bildyring (Buildering) - It is considered urban sports, used in combination with Parkur. They climb on bridges, aqueducts, buildings and any other man-made structures.
Bouldering (Bouldering) - type of climbing, characterized by low (4-5 meters) by routes and extremely complex tracks with incredible tilt angles. In the natural environment, the bowlding routes are paired on large stones and boulders. From insurance - only mats at the bottom of the stand. In its movement to the target - the top - you climb, break and try again. Without delay! Incredible dynamics, energy and excitement!
Sports climbing in the hall
- The most common type of sports climbing, which is very popular with climber. Victory and achievements in this form are the most prestigious. The main goal in climbing climbing is to get to the top, that is, to the top, in the minimum time. The difference from other types of sports climbing is in the height and length of the tracks, light interceptions, greater hooks.
To fully prepare for competitions for difficulty, the "right" training wall is necessary for climbing in the hall. Since in this form of sports climbing, like in any other, absolutely all components are important: relief, the size and shape of the hooks, the time of climbing, the slope of the slope, etc.
Lazain on the difficulty - the lot of courageous and strong spirit. Compared to others, this type of sports climbing requires great effort, will, a maximum of tactical and technical literacy, excellent physical training and psychological sustainability. But the higher the value of victory, the fact of your achievements!
In rock climbing, endurance, speed, excellent technique, ability to concentrate, quickly make the right decisions, personal collections and organization, strength, flexibility, plastic. Lazain on difficulty is exactly what will allow you to fully experience the joy of overcoming and real, nothing inclined, the taste of victory!
- the most dynamic type of height conquest. This species implies climbing only on artificial relief, and the main goal, as can be understood from the name, is the most rapid breakage of the track. For the minimum time, you need to reach the vertices of several meters (from 10 to 27 meters). Imagine! You, literally, five minutes to "calculate" the track and each of your turns - like in a chess party. And then for the usual time you need to competently play your "solo party" and climb to the top. To do this, you need to use all your resources and skills.
It is in rock climbing, especially in a double race, you will feel the spirit of healthy competition and learn to conquer the height - without exaggeration - in a matter of seconds!
Bouldering clutter (From the English. Bouldering - Lazania on large stones) is a special type of climbing, which is based on the passage of low complex tracks that require special techniques of Lazania. As a rule, the height of the bowlding routes is not more than 4-5 meters. The only Insurance on Bouldering is special mats, the so-called Crach Pad. If you make a mistake on the track and break, then the fall in soft mats reduces the risk of injury.
One of the attractive sides of the bowlderring is dynamism. This type of climbing requires high energy and strength. The ability to attach all the power literally in several movements. Sometimes, to reach the next hook, it is necessary not only to be aggregated, but only certain muscle groups use. This makes bowldinga to some extent similar to martial arts.
In bowldinga, preference is given to spent movements and a short series of interceptions. Unlike climbing the difficulty in this form of climbing, an unlimited number of attempts in a certain period of time is allowed (usually 4-6 minutes). In the natural environment, the bowlding routes are paired on large stones, boulders.
Fitness climbing - This kind of cold climbing has recently been loved by many fitness lovers. Rock climbing, like no other sport, develops the whole body: it strengthens the muscles of the body (after all, with almost all groups of the muscles of the limbs and hulls are involved in Lazania) coordination, flexibility and plastic movements. The hall has been created favorable conditions for training, many auxiliary equipment and sports equipment.