Which is characterized by safety, reliability and good dynamic characteristics.
To date, this product is widely used for various activities that are associated with the walking and lifting on the mountains, for example, mountaineering, speleology, and so on.
Types of climbing rope
Rope for mountaineering is preferably made of polyamide, which is melted with a special method. Often the ropes are the core of elastic fibers and an outer braid of more rigid materials. The use of such a two-stroke construction in the production of the product allows him to differ in the strength and wear-resistant characteristics. Also, such a manufacturing technique makes the rope more elastic and tensile, which allows you to slightly soften the jerk during the fall.
Also in the modern market, you can find the Alps rope from Kevlar and Polyester, Which are also characterized by wear resistance and durability, but the node hold much worse. Polyester is not so elastic as Kevlar, and Kevlar is considered a short-lived material.
Varieties
At the moment there are three main types:
- Static - It is characterized by a reduced level of elongation, it is badly pulled, which is allowed to be used when depreciated increased dynamic loads. Static rope applies mainly in the industrial form of mountaineering, during rescue operations and so on.
- Dynamic rope - A device that stretches well, because of which softens the blow when falling. It is used in rock climbing and in all types of sports where the breakdown and fall is possible.
- Additional - Reps, What is not taken for the safety net, and are used exclusively for knitting climbers, knots and for the carriage of goods.
Features of static equipment
The rope Static appeared in the 1960s, when all the shortcomings and cons of dynamic devices began to appear when the vertical caves are conquered. Among the main features of this equipment, it is worth noting the following.
- The speleological rope (or static) is taken for the mounted hitch, that is, in order to mount the checks for the wells and the railing.
- Due to its reduced stretch properties, it has a much smaller opportunity to absorb energy, and dynamic loads become higher.
- The worse the elasticity of this device, the less the risk of falling.
- The presented cable is allowed to be used in the form of insurance only in that situation if the insurance is performed on top.
It is worth noting that the rope is dynamic and static differ mainly by the fact that dynamic equipment has a greater level of elongation, can absorb more energy, therefore the load is not so high. In static loads, loads are often higher than 1000 kgf when cargo falling in 80 kilograms, but in case of a rope of the speaker, this parameter is often not more than 2 kgf.
Thus, the statics and dynamics of the rope must be taken into account when choosing equipment for a certain type of activity.
Video: Production of cords and ropes for Sadkov, protective welinking nets (zus), sports products, for home and life
Like nor go to the mountains and not turning on the rocks, but the time comes when you need to buy a new rope. The question of her acquisition is not as simple as it seems.
The modern choice of ropes is very big and not everyone is 100% confident in the correctness of its choice. All the same, you need to watch the rope, touch it and read the label and instructions with its characteristics. And there will be letters and numbers, parameters and names. I did it more than once. And then decided to think about the meaning of all this.
More relevant selection of dynamic rings for mountaineering. Which is better? Exactly for everyone?!
First - it is necessary to decide what it should be for the rope? Single? Double? Double?
On a single, you can climb up by purchasing one rope, and on others only if you purchase two rings. Their characteristics and logos are different.
The digit "1" in the circle is written on a single rope. Often such a rope is called "one". Double is written 1/2 and called such a "half". This means that without a second rope, this is not "one" and insurance of such (one) rope - unreliable. The intersecting rings and the indicators of such a rope are drawn (i.e., two at once) - like "units".
It is clear that the weight and price of two such rods will (usually) more than one single. But reliability of insurance and climbing "life" with a double and double rope, for the period of climbing or climbing training, more. In addition, there is always the possibility of emergency descent for the entire length of the rope with alluring.
Ultimately - the choice is made. Any firm producer of dynamic rods makes a list of their characteristics. Very often, these characteristics are interconnected directly proportionally. For example, weight and diameter, the effort of the first roaring and dynamic elongation, static elongation and the number of UIAA jerks.
This means that "if somewhere something is lost, then in another place will add ...". All these characteristics are interrelated between themselves and choose the "golden" middle is very difficult. For example, if you want a light rope, therefore it will be less durable, with a smaller diameter, greater elasticity, etc.
In any case, it is necessary to know the value of each digital indicator and characteristics in order to compare the ropes of different brands and prices for them.
Diameter and static strength Rods are connected directly. These indicators are always indicated by the manufacturer. If the diameter of the rope is an important indicator, then there is no static strength. After all, the weight of the cargo, which can be tied to the rope, and she will keep it - is not so important. Or it is 1,700 kg or 2500 kg for ropes with a diameter of 7.5 to 11 mm. Such both of the weight of the weight of the cargo is "a lot", and for the carrier opportunities of equipment, there are enough stations. But the dynamic characteristics of the rope are more important and informative.
The effort of the first jerk (maximum power jerk)- then the maximum effort that occurs when a breakdown with a factor of at least 1.77 cargo 80 kg for single and double rods and cargo 55 kg for "halves". In other words, this is the power that occurs in the rope itself when a climber breaks with a common weight of 80 kg at the exit above the station. Standard - norm 12 Kn (about 1200kg). Those, all single rings, in which, when testing the effort of the first jerk to 1200 kg, the UIAA (for "half" should be less than 8 kN). But it is necessary to correctly understand what the indicator in the figure is 7.1 and, for example, 9.8 implies the force of 710 kg and 980 kg. (I used to look at this indicator and thought that if more digit, then it holds more jerks). In fact, this is the load that will have to the point of insurance at an extremely dangerous breakdown with F. Yankovka about 2. Rods with an indicator greater than 10 (if there are such) it is better not to acquire.
The power of the first roar Depends on another indicator - dynamic elongation. It should be no more than 40%. What he is higher, the more elastic and dynamic the properties of the rope and the power of the first roar will be relatively less. For such elastic ropes (with an indicator close to 40%), there will be a high indicator of static elongation, which should not exceed 10%. This, then the elongation of the rope, which occurs in the event of a climbers hang on it. Such "dynamic" ropes are difficult to use as a railing. For ropes - "halves" it can be up to 12% - respectively, the use of such a "soft" rope as a period is problematic.
The strength and stability of the rope itself Loads are determined by the number of UIAA jerks. It is believed that there must be no less than 5 for a single rope and at least 12 steps for "halves". Test ropes on the jerk are carried out in factory conditions in this way. Fix the end of the rope and throw a load of 80 kg on it with a frying 1.77 factor. At the same time, the rope is stretched and hitting a metal rod with a diameter of 10 mm. Every 5 minutes, the throw is repeated until the first oversight of the rope. In other words, they imitate the disruption of the climber with a common weight of 80 kg, which from the station rose above its first point with a factor of 1.77. Prut and carbine - equivalent. For a single rope, the number of UIAA jerks in the range of 7 - 12, and for "halves" - 12 and higher (when testing for them, the cargo is 55 kg). Here, the higher the indicator - the more stronger, and maybe more more than more than it, the rope. This must be considered.
Shift Pulling. This is an indicator of the elasticity of the patch. For dynamic rods, it is better to have a digit of 0. 20 mm is allowed for 2 meters of rope. With such an indicator, the rope when used as a dulfe, will quickly come into disrepair.
Resistance to breakdown Through a sharp edge. Rare option. Indicated.
In addition to the described indicators, always indicate number of meters in the bay, the number of strands in the overall and weight. Length in meters, strands in numbers, weight in grams per meter. Partially, these indicators are interrelated for rope with a whole. The number of strands is for example 48, it means that the elastic barrel and soft. If 32 is more harsh and "rough." If the weight is 50 grams per meter, and the length of 60 meters then the total weight of the rope will be 3 kg, and if 70 grams are 4.2 kg. The difference is more than 1 kg. There may be differences less pronounced. For example, 60 and 62 grams per meter. The difference is 120 grams. What about the price?! May differ significantly. And grams in reality may be the same. If the question is in weight - the rope is better to weigh.
Dirt resistance to mud It is noted by the presence of special processing. This is indicated in the characteristics. If not specified, it means that it is not. Such processing of the rope gives it reliability, durability convenience in use. Such ropes are indispensable in large mountaineering, on routes with a mixture terrain, in the mountains with a sharp continental climate.
Middle Relief mark There are not all the rods. This is a very convenient option. You need to watch and interested. It may be so half the rope is one color, the other is different.
Protective coefficient (nodes) - the softness of the rope. This is the ratio of the inner diameter of the node, tightened by a load of 10 kg to the diameter of the rope. If more than 1.0 means hard 0.5-0.6 - soft.
You may not doubt! Any method of processing and improving the quality of the rope (less weight, an increase in the number of jerks, etc.) brings such a rope to elite models, which means it is the rise in price.
And the question "Where to look when choosing a climbing rope?" - still remains relevant. It is necessary to look at your climbing goals and, accordingly, select the rope. According to those characteristics that would be balanced first in quality, and then at a price. Very correctly (before buying) "Watch" recommendations and reviews for testing such rods, taking into account the councils and reviews of their practical use. Those ropes that are sold without characteristics, passports, annotations, reviews, etc. - it is better not to buy.
Here are real examples - what they write in passports on the ropes:
The thinnest single dynamic mammut rope. Suitable for those who are important every gram. Purpose: Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixtures, multiphes.
Diameter - 8.9mm Length - 60m Weight - 52g / m Stretching at the first break - 29% Maximum Power Power - 9,5kn Braid Slide - 0mm impregnation Mammut Super Dry
COATING FINISH. Number of jerks with a load of 80 kg (UIAA) - 5-6 stretching with a load of 80 kg - 7%
Dynamic Rope Tendon Master 8.9
Complete Shield impregnation - full treatment of braid and core rope using Nanatechnology technology, Teflon provides maximum protection of the rope from water and abrasive micro-mask, which, falling inside through the braid, can worsen the rope properties. Complete is a new type of processing that significantly increases the service life of TENON rope.
Manufacturer: Czech Republic. Characteristics:
Weight: 52g Diameter: 8.9 mm Number of jerks: 5 Stress Roer: 8,7 Kn. Braid shift: 0 mm Static elongation: 6.9% Type: Dynamics Dynamic elongation: 33% knitting nodes: 0.8
According to these two trips, I would conclude that they are equivalent to their main characteristics. The tendon is softer, more elastic and possibly more injured to mechanical adversities. If you need to descend or use the rope as a railing, it is better mammut. All this assumptions. Here will be the reviews of those who have used these ropes.
Dynamic Rope Characteristics Tendon AMBITION 7.9 MM CS 50 m
Rope diameter, mm - 7.9 Number of UIAA jerks 6 Weight, g / m - 39 Maximum strength jerk, KN - 5.4 Braid shift,% 0 Static dynamic elongation,% - 34 Nodeship coefficient - 0.8 CE standard CE, UIAA Length, M - 50 Color - Red
Little is written - probably, this is one of the easiest single ropes (the number of UIAA jerks is only 6). It would be nice to use such a rope as "half" knowing that it "more".
Dynamic Rope Booster III 9.7mm Classic
Chemical coverage Dry Cover securely protects every thread of the braid rope.
Dry Cover is a new invention that allows you to make a rope more resistant to abrasion and other aggressive factors, such as breakdowns, points of special friction, dirt, sand and humidity, which significantly increases the life of the rope. In addition, Dry Cover is a moisture protection coating. Thus, this treatment prevents not only abrasion, but also the absorption of moisture.
GOLDEN DRY is a combined technology consisting of two parts; Core Treatment processing is performed in addition to the DRY COVER processing. As a result, a rope is obtained with excellent water-repellent properties and striking resistance to abrasion.
Manufacturer: BEAL (France).
Characteristics: Diameter: 9.7mm. Strength jerk: 7 kn. The number of disruptions with factor 1.77: 9. Stretching at the first breakdown: 38%. Number of braid strands: 40 pcs. Weight meter rope: 63 gr. Static stretching: 9.7%. Resistance to breaking through the edge of 0.75 mm radius: Yes.
Here I would read the reviews and if there is nothing "negative" in them, I would have thought about the acquisition of such a rope for the leader's insurance on complex routes in the large mountains.
The static rope was developed taking into account the low degree to the elongation, it has limited elasticity and is primarily produced for speleological purposes, and is called this "speleological". Such a rope can withstand a drop with a factor of less than 1.
Static safety - rescue rope is used in mountaineering, industrial mountaineering, speleology and tourism for fixed hide, tensioning the crossing, device rail and for fueling wells. For insurance, the partner applies only on condition that the insurance of a static rope is carried out on top.
The main indicator of the static rope is the elongation (which should not exceed 5%, and in some - 0%). The smaller the elasticity of the rope, the smaller the permissible factor of falling.
The second indicator of the static rope is its strength (can reach 44kn, but not less 22kn).
When choosing, when you gathered to buy a static rope, it must be borne in mind that the workload should be approximately 1/10 from the referred to the manufacturer. Two types: Type - A, is used for rescue and high-rise works, and in speleology. Type - B, can only be used for descent (delicer), since it is calculated for a smaller load and has a smaller diameter than the rope of type A.
Terms of use: speleo - ropes, designed for speleology specifically and have greater wear resistance. The rope Canyon - floats on the surface and does not wet, however, due to the use of polypropylene, has less strength and number of jerks.
Store such a rope, in a dry dark place. Preferably in the case.
You can choose and buy a static rope among the presented options that meet all the requirements you need.
Buy rope in the online store Alpextrim - it means to buy cheaper!
Ropes are divided, according to the appointment, on dynamic, intended for climbers, and static, intended for industrial work at height, for rescue work and in speleology. Static ropes are low stretch ropes. They serve for insurance at work at height, for savingness, in speleology, etc. It is important that the static rope has a minimal stretching and maximum strength. Rope Alpinist - Dynamic - Designed for climam insurance during breakdowns. Her task is to provide a minimum load on a person even with a deep breakdown by elongation.Design rope
Static ropes are braided textile ropes, the design of which consists of a kernel (core) (1) and braids (2). The core has a basic carrier function and consists of individual lived. The braid protects the core from various influences (mechanical, chemical, thermal, etc.).Diameter measurement
This value is measured when the rope load is weighing 10 kg. The minimum diameter is 8.5 mm, maximum 16 mm.Rope extension
Static elongation is tested at a test load of 150 kg (preliminary measurement with a weight of 50 kg). There must be no more than 5%.Static strength (discontinuous load)
In accordance with the requirements of European and Russian standards, static ropes have static strength of at least 22 kN (2200 kgf).ATTENTION! Recommended workload of the rope - 1/10 of the nominal strength indicated on the product label.
Material requirements
A static rope should be made of a material that has a melting point above 195 ° C. It is impossible to use polyethylene and polypropylene for their manufacture. Ropes, for Cayening Exception, but in strength comply with statics standards.Displacement braid relative to the core
With repeated risks on the rope on zhumarah and at the descents on the rope, the risk of braid displacement occurs. With the rope test, the braid shift is measured relative to the kernel. It is required that the offset does not exceed 40 mm when stretching the rope with a length of 1,930 mm, i.e. approximately ± 1%.Dynamic impact on jerks
The number of disruptions is a measure of safety (strength) of the rope. No new rope in good condition with proper operation - in practice can not be broken at the specified discontinuous load. B compliance with the requirements, the rope should withstand at least five breakdowns with a fall coefficient 1 at 80-kilogram loads. Test pattern 2 m long. Is associated at the ends of the "Eight" nodes and are tested by five jerks with a fall coefficient 1. The rope should withstand all five drops. In practice, jerk tests continue until the rope breaks. This parameter is indicated in the passport on the product.
The safety of the rope is gradually decreasing due to the aging of the material and wear, its strength is reduced. The products affecting the polyamide fibers also reduces the strength of the rope.
Protectory coefficient (rope rigidity)
One of the most important requirements for climbing ropes is a reliable nodes. The hard rope is bad in the Karabin and does not fit well into the nodes, work with a soft rope is much more pleasant. How to check it? A simple assembly knits on the rope and loaded with a mass of 10 kg. Then the ratio of the diameters of the free rope and rope in the node is measured. This is a nodal coefficient. It should not be higher than 1.2. |
Like an article on the topic of equipment certification, published in the first issue of the magazine "Mountains", this text does not claim to be scientifically and comprehensiveness. This is rather a library, a brief overview. Conditionally ropes can be divided into three groups: dynamic, static and special. We will not disassemble the latter, as their use lies outside our usual activity in the mountains. I will give only two examples: ropes with aramid (kevlar) braid and rope with a metal mesh inside. The rope with aramid braid has increased resistance to high temperatures and relatively low static elongation; The metal mesh between the braid and the core gives the rope of anti-vandal properties. Structurally, all ropes consist of two components: a core that carries the main load and consists of threads and braids, the main function of which is the protection of the core and giving the rope of the usual round view. Depending on the amount of threads in the braid, it can be 48, 32 and 40-strand. The most common versions - 48 and 32. The 32-strand braid is more durable due to the greater thickness of the braid, but the more rough to the touch and slightly tougher compared to the 48-strand. As a rule, the braid and the core are not connected with each other, so the effect of the braid shift occurs. Especially clearly it is manifested if the rope is often used for descents. Also, this is manifested when the braid of the loaded rope of the sharp edge or the snacking of it is rope - the braid slides. There are technologies "gluing" braid to the core. It enhances the safety of the rope: even if we ride the braid with a knife, it does not slip. Of course, the price of such ropes is much higher. |
Static ropes
Static ropes have high strength and relatively low static elongation - 3-5%. Such ropes are used to organize a railing in the mountains, for savingness, industrial mountaineering, speleology, canyoning, arboristics, etc., but they are not intended for insurance. More precisely, they should not be used when there can be a potential to fall with a frying factor equal to 1 or more. Any options for lower insurance are excluded, top - in question. Most manufacturers indicate the instructions for the inadmissibility of using a static rope as a safety. The exception is to carry out rescue work.
Often you can see the "mustache" of self-insurance made from a static rope. If it is possible to work on self-insurance, the probability of falling with a factor, a jerk is more than 1 very high, so it is better not to use self-insurance made from a static rope.
Characteristics of static rope
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Type of rope (A or B). The main difference is the minimum static strength. Type A ropes should have a minimum static strength of 22 Kn, type B - 18 KN. Typically, the type in the ropes with a diameter of 9 mm.
Relative extension (Elongation). The degree of extension of the rope under load. The test is carried out under load of 150 kg. The value should not exceed 5%. This is usually about 3%.
Shift braid (Sheath Slippage). This parameter is very important if the rope is used for descents. With a large braid shift, a situation is possible when the braid still has a braid, and the core has long over. The braid shift test is quite difficult to describe. An ideal value is 0 mm, maximum - 20 mm for 2 meters of rope (1%). More often this value is 0-5 mm.
Shrinkage(Shrinkage). The characteristic on which it is worth stopping in more detail. The overwhelming majority of ropes produced in the world passes the thermophilic process: after weaving the rope
Welbs a special composition and placed in a closet with a temperature of about 150 degrees. As a result of this action, the rope is sitting on the factory. The good shrinkage value is 1.5-2%. Those. A rope of 50 meters long after a while "Sits" about the meter. But! All this does not apply to the ropes produced in our country, as well as to the ropes of Belarusian and Ukrainian production. They do not pass the thermophilication process and their shrinkage is up to 15%. In order to have a rope of 50 meters long, it is necessary to buy 55, and better than 60 meters. It should be noted that this parameter is not regulated by the domestic standard GOST-R EN1891-2012 (enacted from January 1, 2013), nor the European standard EN1891 as a reason that this parameter does not affect the operational properties of the rope. So it is impossible to reproach individual manufacturers in the absence of thermophilication, but sometimes I really want.
Static strength (Static Strength). At least 22 Kn for type A and 18 KN for type B. For ropes with a diameter of 10 and more millimeters, it is close to 30 Kn (three tons). There is also a parameter - "Strength of nodes" (Strength with Knots). It is about 70% of static strength, although it all depends on the node. Some manufacturers indicate that the real workload on the rope should not exceed 10% of static strength. Those. If the rope has static strength, for example, 32 kN, this means that the workload should not exceed 3.2 kn (320 kg).
Protectory coefficient (Knotability). This parameter characterizes the softness of the rope. The rope tie a simple knot and suspend the cargo 10 kg per minute. Then the load is reduced to 1 kg and measure. The ratio of the internal diameter of the node to the diameter of the rope and there is a pricing coefficient. The inner diameter of the node is measured by a measuring cone. The value of 0.6-0.7 speaks about the tactile softness of the rope, 1.0 and higher - about the high rigidity of the rope. There are samples of a domestic rope with a value of 2 and even more. This characteristic of the static rope does not always indicate manufacturers. Number of Falls: Static Ropes are dynamic tests that define this indicator. The load weighing 100 kg for the type A rope A or 80 kg for ropes of type B is reset with a frying factor equal to 1. The rope must withstand at least five jerks. Usually this value is several times higher.
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Dynamic ropes
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The main and, in fact, the only purpose of dynamic ropes is insurance. Upper, bottom - any. The exception is insurance at savingings, where it is better to refuse from dynamic ropes. The appearance of dynamic ropes has led to the disappearance of such technical techniques as "rope rope". When all the ropes were static, the riffling was necessary in order to maximize the load on the upper point and threw the load on the load, that is, the stretching of the load in time. In each alpalaner there was an insurance stand, where this reception was carefully worked out. It was vital.
The property of the dynamic rope is the absorption of the energy of the jerk due to the elongation of the rope. In fact, this is the same as automatic dranking. Additional etching in this case is not only not required, but also dangerous: when a breakdown with the exit above the lower point, the person flies 2 distances of exceeding over the point plus a dynamic elongation of the rope (about 35%). Those. The depth of falling below the top point is about three exceeding lengths above the point. The rope is able to reduce the load on the upper point and on raging to relatively safe values, but the danger of blows about the relief remains. If you additionally go to the rope, it will only increase the depth of the fall and, therefore, increase the risk of hitting the relief.
In one of the alpilaterals, I regularly watch the branch of newcomers, which various instructors lead to the old, but still a lively insurance stand and demonstrate to them the "force of the jerk". All this happens using the old static rope as a safety. The newcomer tightly clamps the rope in the safety device and when jerking takes up the length of his self-insurance. The instructor says: "Here, see what jerk!". At the same time, he does not even understand that it grossly violates safety techniques using a static rope as a safety. Factor Jerk with such tests is uniquely higher than 1. This demonstration is not only not safe, but also is meaningless, since the jerk of this force will never arise if a dynamic rope is used. Namely, it should be used, and the alpinism instructor cannot do not know about it.
Everything that said about the etching does not mean that it is always dangerous. For example, when working in the snow, it may be saving. Apparently, you can come up with a situation on the rocks. But! Italian Alpclub conducted a study of the occurrence of peak load. It turned out that if with a breakdown with the bottom insurance, the maximum force on the thoring occurs in 0.2 seconds after a breakdown, then on the insuring only in 0.8 seconds. Those. When the second felt the jerk, the leader was already "received" ...
Types of dynamic rope
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Depending on the purpose of use, there are three types of ropes:
Single(Single) - a regular rope that can be used for insurance. Marking such a rope number 1 in a circle. The diameter of the single rope from 8.7 mm.
Double(Half) - a rope with a diameter of 7.5 mm, which is used in a pair with another similar rope, and they are alternately jamged into different intermediate points of insurance. Such ropes are marked with 1/2 icon.
Dwain(Twin) - the rope also has a diameter from 7.5 mm. The use of dual ropes implies their use as one, i.e. Both ropes are shaped together in all intermediates of insurance. Such ropes are marked with a icon consisting of two intersecting rings. It should be noted that the overwhelming majority of ropes with a diameter of 7.5-8.5 mm will satisfy both the standard for Double and for Twin. It is unacceptable to use Half and Twin ropes as single.
Water-repellent impregnation of dynamic ropes
While the rope is new and dry, it does not matter is impregnated or not. Ropes that are used in closed rooms in impregnation do not need. But as soon as contact with water occurs, the situation changes. There are three main problems:
- The strength of the wet rope is more than two times less than dry. During tests on the number of jerks, the wet rope withstands one or two, maximum, three jerk. After drying, the properties are restored.
- Glacical water often carries a suspension with them, which penetrates with water into the rope and then remains there. When drying, it turns into an abrasive, which leads to a rapid wear of the rope.
- The most obvious: wet rope weighs much more than dry. It is hard to carry, it's inconvenient and uncomfortable to work with it. The situation is all familiar to everyone, when the flow of water is poured on the wet rope on the wet rope, squeezed by the brake device. And if the temperature drops below zero, then the wet rope turns into a wire.
Conclusion: Water must be struggling.
High-quality, and the main durable water-repellent impregnation - the headache of manufacturers. On the market you can find three versions of the rope: without impregnation, with impregnating braid, with a complete impregnation (braid and core). The price of the rope with impregnation is definitely higher than without.
At a meeting of the Security Commission, the UIAA in 2012, an interesting study was presented, from which it follows that impregnation of only braids are extremely short-lived and very quickly the properties of such a rope become similar to the properties of the rope without impregnation. Therefore, choosing a rope with impregnation do not need to save, buying a "semi-rotten" product. You just overpay or count on very short service life of this rope.
But it is necessary to understand that the life of the impregnation in any case is shorter than the life of the rope. What to choose? For use on the climbing, climbing, climbing on dry rocks or in a deliberate frost, a rope with impregnation is not needed. Although it should be noted that the presence of impregnation gives the rope a greater wear resistance even in dry operating conditions. If we are talking about "all-weather", "ordinary" mountain conditions, then ropes with impregnation preferable.
The main characteristics of dynamic ropes
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Immediately I want to note that for dynamic ropes, the concept of "static strength" is practically not used. It is almost the same as in static ropes of a similar diameter, but this parameter is not as important for a dynamic rope.
The effort of the first jerk (Impact Force). The most important feature for dynamic rope. This is the maximum effort that occurs in the safety chain when breaking with a frying factor equal to about 1.77 cargo weighing 80 kg (55 kg for ropes of type Half and 80 kg for two TWIN ropes). According to the standard, this force should not exceed 12 Kn (1200 kg). Real values \u200b\u200bare 7.5-10 kN. Large it depends on the manufacturer. Someone makes ropes with a low force of the first jerk, but this leads to a greater relative elongation. Others, on the contrary, try to make ropes with a relatively "tough" jerk, but the relative elongation decreases.
Number of UIAA jerks (Number of Falls UIAA). A rope piece is rigidly fixed in one end. On the other end, the weight is fixed with a weight of 80 kg (55 kg for Half type) and is reset down with a factor of 1.77. At the same time, the rope strikes the carbine (rods with R \u003d 5 mm). The test is repeated with an interval of 5 minutes (during this time the rope "rests") to the first damage to the rope. According to the standard of such jerks, no less than 5. is usually 7-10 and higher. It should be noted that the test is carried out using a carbine (rod) with a radius of 5 mm, and modern carbines used in deficcations have, as a rule, a smaller radius. Obviously, the number of jerks will be less.
Static elongation Static Elongation). This parameter becomes important if the rope is used as a railing. Often you can hear the phrase: "Zhuming on a dynamic rope?! Yes, you! ". As a rule, these are pronounced those who use the products of one of two plants producing a dynamic rope in our country. These ropes are produced by strongly outdated technologies and they really represent "rubber band". According to the standard, this parameter should not exceed 10%, and usually it is 7-8%, which, of course, is not very good for the period rope, but if you figure it out, then only twice the indicators of static ropes. Of course, for the railing it is better to use "statics", but the use of modern "speakers" is not so uncomfortable, as it was 10-15 years ago.
Dynamic elongation (Dynamic Elongation).
This is actually what and extinguishing the jerk - "etching". According to the standard, the maximum value is 40%. Remo 30-35%. Usually, the lower the effort of the first roar, the greater the elongation - and vice versa.
We examined the braid shift and coefficient, we considered, speaking of static ropes (according to EN892, it is not defined, but it is usually calculated).
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Finishing a conversation about dynamic ropes, I want to note that some Russian manufacturers for incomprehensible reasons are misleading buyers, calling obviously static ropes dynamic. In the falsities of this statement, you can easily make sure to open the passport attached to the rope with the requirements of standards. But for some reason, nothing is attached to the rope (which often happens), then it is worth buying this rope at all