Rock climbing is a much more diverse sport, which may seem at first glance. There are three official sports disciplines (climbing for difficulty, climbing on speed and blending) and many other types of climbing, implying the overcoming of the trails both on artificial cliffroms and on the natural relief.
Lazain on speed
Lazain on speed is one of the most spectacular disciplines in. The purpose of the competition, as is clear from the name, is to overcome the route in the minimum time. Competition can be carried out both in the format of individual climbing and in the format of a pair race. Because The height of the route can be several tens of meters, upper insurance is used.
Lazain on speed originated in the Soviet Union in 1947 and at first was considered exclusively as auxiliary type of mountaineering. Subsequently, climbing at speed gained more popularity and in 1987 it was approved by the climbing commission at UIAA as a separate climbing discipline.
In order to speed up the inclusion of rock climbing olympic species Sports, in 2005, a reference route was developed, on which most competitions take place today.
Lazain on difficulty
Climbing for difficulty is the most popular climbing discipline, and achievements are considered the most prestigious. The purpose of the competition is to get to the top, for which an athlete is given a certain amount of time (as a rule, from 4 to 15 minutes). With climbing, lower insurance is applied to difficulty. Competition participants are ranked depending on the height or time of the route.
In Lazania, not only power, endurance and plastic, but also intelligence are required for difficulty from an athlete. Before passing the climbing route, they look at it and think over every move. Error at the planning stage of its actions can cost very expensive.
Bouldering
This type of climbing was invented by the city of Boulder, from which he received its name. "Boulder" is translated from English as a boulder. Accordingly, Bouldering is clown clinches. This town in Colorado is notable for the fact that in its vicinity there are many stone blocks a few meters high. From Lazania on these blocks and modern bowlding competitions have grown.
Bouldering is overcoming a series of short, but very complex tracks. On the track and vacation athlete gives a limited amount of time and an unlimited number of attempts. Gymnastic insurance and crashpad applied. Bouldering competitions are usually carried out on the climbers, and not on the natural relief.
In addition to the above-mentioned sports disciplines of climbing, such varieties such as:
- Solo - cliffs on the rocks alone with self-insurance;
- FREE SOLO - cliffs alone without insurance;
- DWS, Deep Water Solo - Lazain without insurance over water;
- Trad or Traditional - climbing at unprepared rocks with the organization of its time points of insurance;
- Multipitch - climbing on routes having a length of more than one rope;
- Jumping - jumps on the hook;
- Onsight - passage of the track without prior to familiarize with it;
- Flash - passage of the route from the first attempt, but having information about it or after observing the other climbing;
- Red Point - the passage of the route after working on it and several attempts.
A quiet sapa reached the final, and in the final race I knocked out the unbearable Tsyganov. Tsyganova reacted emotionally to the defeat that Anuk did not wait for a squall of applause from the simulator, and prudently merged immediately, as soon as they were taken away from the rope. Men final race was no less dramatic.
Dmitry Timofeev and Sergey Sinitsyn fled to hand in hand.
Until the last interception, it was unclear who wins.
But here Serega for some reason thought: "I wonder, I win or lose?"
At that moment, Dima hit a clapboard.
Anuk Zoberer, France, 1st place
I'm so glad that I won! Especially specary that he won it here, in Russia, in the country of speeds. How did it happen? I do not know myself, it did not work today.Apparently, another time should take away.
Let the French think that they can win. Let them love speed :) In fact, with my preparation - ok.
After injuries recovered, but still not at the full coil train.
This is a type of test start. Check if everything is in place.
Feet in place, head like too.
The main start in July, the European Championship in Chamonix. The session must be closed, then I will go to Chinese commercial competitions.
We are three in Shanghai: I am, Levochkin and Sinitsyn.
Just the fees will be, but I refused the fees, because I break on them.
To me better at homewhere all your favorite, relatives. Then I will go to the Russian Bolding Championship, then in Chamonix, and I want to stay until September in Europe, on the rocks try to get something else and speak to Arco. How did you get here? "Dozen" shorter than the "spot", to train was a little simpler. Less chances to make a mistake than fifteen meters. Dozen, like a spin, go to me normally.
You come to the training session, you say to yourself: eight times.
I barely run as half.
Think: damn! Four more times! Forcing myself to do it. I scream eight times and for difficulty :) in competitive regime with partners in training do not run, I do not need it. I train Standard: Yoga, meat, I'm running. It used to run kilometers on twelve, and here four days before the start - the first time after the operation - the Crossik rang, Taapa was all sore ...
I live in a good area, we have a forest, you can run, uphill, from the mountain, there is a biathlon track, good, especially now, when warmed.
Before that, there is a slippery, then minus forty, not particularly raise.
And the body is ready. Basically, I try to drive weight.
You run 15 km, minus one and a half kilogram per jogging. Complaints what psychologically i put? Yes, probably there is such, but without it in any way.
And who finished? :) In general, there is no thought in my head: I'll break all! Just calmly and clearly everything.
And anyway, who and what you say or try to somehow knock out. For my three-four-year experience, the correct attitude was made: I listen to music, I look straight and that's it.
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Speed \u200b\u200bis such a form when any emotion can "fall out" you.
Any emotion reduces your concentration.
Because of this, I lost.
I took the last hook badly.
Because just started thinking about something. It is impossible to think at all. During climbing, you must be focused clean on the track. I climb, the start went cool, on the fourth hook of me a little more than usually, I was taken out, I should be pressed against the wall, and I was a little further. And I began some thoughts. Something went wrong, you start thinking, and I run at this time, run, thoughts have already started, the process has already gone, I run and before the very finish comes: "I wonder, I win or lose?"
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But she came, and I immediately took a hook.
One interception added, that is, I took it and grapted.
That's because of this, I lost.
If I hadn't donated her, I think I would have finished it.
What, I took and took, finish did.
Even broke, what's the difference? Either lost, or won, everything. Hit or miss. But not everything comes on time. Dozen easier to run. There are no spots in Yekaterinburg.
Now here is the twelve-meter track we can cheat. It will be easier to fifteen.
Pota, of course, I would like. It is necessary to work on it. In my competitive experience, despite the fact that there are little participated countries, the European Cup spent at a very high level. The European Cup stated in May last year, but it was put in the European calendar, and to watch the European calendar, you need to go to the European Union, then somewhere else, only there you will see the calendar, that is, to come there, you need to do ten clicks there.
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The people did not even know that there would be a cup. I think many would plan a trip. The French are well done, they arrived such a big delegation.
Won a male difficulty.
And this is this, in Russia!
Of course, I exaggerate, but nevertheless, you can say, in the enemy's mill, the main thing, because we are the leaders in this form, especially our girls, and she won, she is just well done, she can be put a monument. But we understand that, and many are not going to the details.
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Two coaches are engaged in the female team on high-speed climbing: Silvan Shapel - he was running with me, in pairs and TP, and as a second coach is called, - I do not remember. Both colorful appearance, one high, hairy, long, other small, bald, muscular. They are well done, at such a high level raised the speed in France, it is speed. Rock climbing in France has been developed above, it seems to me.
They have in the team now more than twenty speeds.
France is unique in this sense. By the way, in Europe the first who scored the team at speed is the Italians, they scored young to train them.
Leo Gonryo Last year, the World Cup has won the Arco's Cup, he is still a winner of the world championship. Of course, the general team is weaker than us, but it is clear, we have been cultivated this whole type of climbing, but the Europeans also do not stand still, grow, catch up.
Sponsors of the European Cup Companies
Reza "Alipuresen" Alipurschenazandyfar (Reza Alipourshenazandifar).
Thus, the world record lasted 3 years!
Now, the Iranian athlete of the cuta "Alipursten" Alipourshenazandifar (Reza Alipourshenazandifar) became the new record holder of the world in speed.
And the 23-year-old athlete twice for one start surpassed the achievement of Daniel!
Reza "Alipurezen" AlipourceShenazandifar (Reza Alipourshenazandifar) establishes a new world record
The first time the world record was breaking to them in 1/2 finals, when the reserve went to the start with the Frenchman Bass Mawmom, in this duel resented record time in 5.48 secondsthat 1.2 seconds faster than reaching Daniel!
You can watch this record on the video from the time stamp 35:40
The second time, in the Small Final, in the race with Russian Alexander Shikov, the recent showed time 5.58 seconds, which also exceeds the achievement of Daniel.
You can watch this record on the video from the time stamp 41:20
In addition, the cut, became the winner of this stage of the competition!
As for Ukrainian athletes, unfortunately, neither Daniel Boldyrev could not repeat Alla Marines
This time, Daniel stopped at the 1/4 final of the loss Rail to Russian Vladislav Deulin (you can watch this race at the time point 27:10). Thus, taking the final sixth place.
Alla Marenich also ended the competition for the 1/4 finals losing the risk of Russians Alla Tsigan (you can watch this race at the time point 18:25). Thus, taking the final fifth place.
Konstantin Pavleblenly stopped at the 1/8 finals, losing Russian to Alexander Shikow (you can watch this race at the time point 13:40). Thus, taking the final 14th place.
In the discipline of Bouldering, our athletes Sergei Topishko (Kiev / Lugansk) and Yevgeny Kazbekova (Dnipro) were not able to break into the final part of the competition, taking 19 and 14th place, respectively.
The Kharkiv citizens of Margarita Zakharov and Ksenia Melnikov did not qualify and occupied the final 39 and 45 places.
Wins the one who overcomes the maximum number of tracks by spending the minimum number of attempts. In each round, the athlete is offered 4-5 tracks. The route is considered to be passed if the athlete recorded the "top" with two hands, as the final relief or the hook marked with a sticker with an appropriate inscription.
Modern tracks also include an intermediate finish (the so-called "zone"). They are marked with a special sticker. The achievement of these points of routes also goes to the offset of the athlete. With an equal number of trails passed and attempts to the place of athletes are determined by the number of "zones" and attempts spent on them. In the equality of all the above mentioned indicators, an athlete has an advantage of the opponent on the results of the previous round of competition.
One of the features of the bowlderring is the lack of insurance. In the event of a breakdown, the athlete falls on special gymnastic mats.
Lazain on speed
The most dynamic and understandable climbing discipline. Who quickly broke the 15-thyme vertical track, he won. However, in addition to the speed of Lazania, there is also a concentration of attention: at the start - to prevent Falstart and on the finish, it is necessary to show the passage of the track, which "knocks out" along the finish button.Competitions are held in two stages. Initially, all participants undergo qualifications. Each applicant has two attempts to show best time. According to the results of this round, 16 strongest athletes who continue to fight the format of paired races. They are formed in the following way: 1-16, 2-15, 3-14, etc. On the way to gold, it is necessary to overcome 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 finals and the final. Bronze play athletes losing in the semifinals. In the modern version of the competition is most often conducted with automatic upper insurance.
Initially, the speed was carried out in the so-called classic format: unique routes on each competition. Participants of the paired races climbed both tracks, alternately by changing the places, their times were summed up, and the next round was the fastest athlete. Since 2005, speed competitions under standardized reference trails (record format).
On the reference tracks, the world record is registered. From December 18, 2017, the record among men belongs to the cut of Alipurzenazandfar (Iran) - 5.48 seconds. Among women, the achievement belongs to Ariece Susanti Rahaya (Indonesia) - 6.995. She became the first woman squeezed out of seven seconds.
At the World Championships in Sinine (China, 2009), team competitions "for speed" were held in the form of a relay.
Lazain on difficulty
Here the one who further breaks down along the highway prepared by a special team of trails trails. Time is taken into account, only in the final of those who had the track to the end, to the top (Tor - Top in Eng.). Modern tracks have a length of up to 40 meters. In "difficulties", the organization of safe bottom insurance is of great importance: the athlete must independently enter the safety rope in the deficule, which are located throughout the entire route. At the World Championships in Paris (1997) and in Arco (2011), there were demonstration competitions "for difficulty" in the form of "dueli", where two athletes start on two identical tracks - by analogy of "steam race in Lazania for speed" .
Multi-around
Includes three disciplines (blending, speed and difficulty), in some cases - two (in any combination).August 3, 2016 IOC included climbing in the program Olympic Games 2020. In March 2017, the IFSC Assembly identified the format of the Olympic tournament in Tokyo. In competitions will be attended by 20 men and 20 women. The tournament will be held in two rounds - qualifications and finals. In each of them, applicants have to speak in three disciplines. The result of the participant is determined by multiplying places occupied in each of them. The smaller the resulting coefficient, the better.
Excerpts from the Rules of Competitions (approved by the Order of the Ministry of Transport of Russia of December 31, 2013 No. 1140)
"... Competitions are held in sports disciplines in accordance with the All-Russian Register of Sports:- Lazain on difficulty (difficulty) - individual climbing;
- Lazain on speed (speed) - pair race, individual climbing;
- Bouldering - a series of short problem tracks.
Competitions can be conducted on both artificial relief and natural rocks; on open and closed tracks; with the preliminary testing of the tracks or without that; with personal, team and personal-team offset, as well as with complex personal test (Two chair, all-around).
Competitions in Lazania for difficulty can be conducted with time consideration, in particular, in a duel - parallel climbing on difficulty by analogy with a steam race in Lazania to speed. Competitions in climbing on speed can be carried out in the format of the relay. The order of the duel and / or the relay is determined by the regulations of the competition ... "
Excerpts from the Rules of Competitions (approved by the order of the Ministry of Sport of Russia dated April 12, 2018 No. 342)
"... Competitions in all-around represent competitions with a comprehensive test, based on the results of the main climbing disciplines (bowldaring, climbing on speed, climbing for difficulty).Competitions in all-around can take place:
a) as separate competitions;
b) together with competitions in separate disciplines with a separate finals in the all-around;
c) together with competitions in separate disciplines without a separate finals in the all-around.
The result of the competition in all-around in the Olympic format is defined as a product of places occupied by the athlete in each of the disciplines included in the all-around. The smaller the work, the higher the place occupied by the athlete ... "
These are the main incidents that occur once at once occur at competitions in speed! Here and inaccuracy in the rules, and ignorance of these very rules, different starting systems, conditions. Maybe it will soon disappear and starts will pass without a chandelier!
1. Unified starting system.
A visual example of a temporary cut-off problem was at the first two stages of the World Cup in China, when the time of the occasion of one and other stages differed in half a second and all set personal records. By the way, only 1-2 athletes were able to update their results to ECM in Nanjing during the season. On the video, the start of the athletes on the light signal is compared, it is objective than the sound. Broadcast speed everywhere is different, so it is more logical to look at the signal
2. Falstarts.
Cases of falsers were enough and every start the reaction of judges on them was different, and the athletes (who did not make a falserant) poorly understood their rights.
Almost all starts of the season athlete who did not make Falstart had to climb one. This is explained by the fact that the athlete must have a temporary cut-off for further rounds, as with controversial moments (mutual breakdowns) in the following rounds, can watch the previous round.
The ideal example is to climb alone - Iranian Reza:
But there are imperfect examples when the athlete climbed alone and allowed the breakdown. So it was with Lena Timofeeva on Ecm in Arco, so it was with Polyna Aksenova on the Kyrgyz Republic in Voronezh. The Arco decided that no one in the next round was passed in 1/4 there were 7 athletes, and not 8. In Voronezh, they took the time of the previous round and it was not in favor of Polina. Although IFSC rules are spelled out that in this case there should be a resurgeon!
EKM ARKO:
KR Voronezh:
But a little climb IFSC went even easier way! In the last cup starts, the above was canceled! If one of the athletes makes a false, then the second automatically wins the round ends. Alone can not climb!
And if both athletes make Falstart? Here they look at the time of the reaction of the separation of legs from the starting platform (10 hundredths). Who has the time of the reaction faster, he lost ... In China, on ECM in Uvyan, there was such a case of two falsers again with the participation of Lena Timofeeva. On the video you can see that Lena made a feet of his rival later, and obviously! After a long trial with the judges, we were told the following: "The system fixes the pressure of the legs on the starting pedal! Lena weakened the pressure earlier than the rival, therefore her reaction time is faster, and in this situation mutual falsers, it loses round"
And the case on the first EKM 2017 between Anya Tsyganova and Alla Marenich (Ukraine) is generally strange! Here you need to watch the video:
Our Asian brothers offered this option in general - do not stop athletes when someone made Falstart! They will be recognized as a result after the finish button. The option is controversial and you can discuss for a long time, but first of all do it for the competition to do not pull and stop!
3. Double break
In this case, there is a restart. If the situation is repeated, then watch the previous round or any other completed round of athletes. However, there were few mutual disruptions. Here is the case of 2014:
These are the main incidents that occur once at once occur at competitions in speed! Here and inaccuracy in the rules, and ignorance of these very rules, different starting systems, conditions. Maybe it will soon disappear and starts will pass without a chandelier!
For clarity, I regish the basic rules for holding starts for speed:
1. The athlete is given 10 seconds. To prepare the starting platform, 4 seconds to approach the start after the "on the start" command. The rule does not apply hard, but if the athlete clearly exceeded all the rules, then the yellow card.
2. Two yellow cards per start - cancellation of the result of this start. If the athlete gets the third yellow card on one of the starts, it is not allowed until the next start!
3. After the command "Ready" (Ready), you can not raise your hand and appeal about unwitting - this is a yellow card. Before this team - you can!
4. The signal consists of three signals each with an interval of 1 second, the third signal is characterized by sound from the other previous ones.
5. The time of the reaction of the legs of the leg after the third signal is 10 hundredths!
6. If the athlete admits Falstart in any of the rounds, it automatically removed from the competition and takes the last place in this round, and its opponent (in final rounds) wins automatically and in this round may not continue his race!
7. If in the testing of the false, the athlete must climb on! The race do not stop!
8. mutual Falstarts. Watch the reaction time, who has closer to 10 hundredth, he won.
9. The athlete has 5 minutes of rest between their races. No matter, recount or next round.
10. Two breakdowns or the same time - rearning!
11. The breakdown of the starting system - the time is fixed on manual stopwheels. For each track, three judges with stopwalls. Take average time. Cut up to tenths.
12. If the same times in qualifying, the draw is carried out.
13. Less than 16 people participate in the starts, for example 15, then the next round takes 8 best. If less than 8, then 4!