And, of course, representatives of the media were interested - how close to reality is that the film workers will see on the screen. Sergey Borsov said: "I first watched a movie in IMAX 3D and" Everest "really frightened me!". Sports climb, nevertheless, significantly different from the commercial, which is speaking in the film Baltazar Kormacur. About it told Mstislav Gorbenko. "There is an iron rule of climbing - after 14.00, it is necessary to return back, regardless of whether you climbed to the top or before it is 100 meters left. By evening, the weather is usually spoiled and you can not have time to return. ". In addition, as Sergey Borshov emphasized, "The authors embarrassed reality quite a bit. Upstairs, people look not very beautiful - they have snot to the knee ... "
Regarding commercial ascents, Ukrainian climbers expressed a few skeptical opinion. True, when the business just started, this difference was not so stronger. Nowadays, the path to the top through the icefall (stairs, railings) is maintained in order of the Nepalese and now instead of $ 100% of $ 500 from each climbers. Sad statistics says every fourth of those who are trying to storm the top of the world dies. Recently, the Japanese paid the work of 36 Sherpov who cleaned the slopes from the Tibetan side from the corpses. In 2005, relatives of the deceased Korean paid $ 360 thousand to remove his body from the top.
The whole problem is that, starting from a height of 7500 meters, the so-called "death zone" begins. At the height of flights of supersonic aircraft, a person is not able to be long without oxygen. Sergei Borsov said that the rise on Lhotza lasted 8 days (of which 4 - without oxygen) and not a drowned low climber lost 15 kg (!). After the ascents without oxygen at the height, more than 7500 he had to recover about a year.
Nowadays, commercialization, especially from the Chinese side of Everest, has reached the limit - dozens of groups come out for one route, a queue is created. And earlier it was a rule: one route is one group.
Many heroes of the film "Everest" Mstislav Gorbenko And Sergey Borsov knew personally. According to Bershov, Anatoly Breuryvwho saved people from the Rob Hall group, was a real Russian warrant, but, contrary to what was shown in the film, he did not play the harmonica and the whiskey did not drink.
Scott Fisher, who played Jake Jillenhol in the film, organized the first commercial tours in 1992, four years before the events shown in the picture. "Scott Fisher in the picture is not shown from a very good side. In fact, he was a very strong leader. Even in the mountains, he did not release a satellite telephone from her hands, conducted a report on live, I was looking for and found sponsors!"- told Mstislav Gorbenko who he personally knew and was friends with Fisher with Fisher.
Ukrainian climbers agreed that the head of the Rob Hall group died because contrary to the circumstances (sharp deterioration in the weather) decided to help his friend Doug Hansen to reach the top ...
Sergey Borsov noticed on this: "Mountains stood and stand. Life is one, and in the mountains you can always go back! "
Especially for the site Nikolai Lenznev
Sergey Borshov - the legend of the Ukrainian and world mountaineering - turned 70 !!!
Honored Master of Sports by Alpinnism, Master of Sports on Climbing, Honored Coach of Ukraine, Snow Bars, Kavaler of the Order of the Labor Red Banner (1982), Friendship of Peoples (1989), "For Merit" III Art. (1996), "For courage" II Art. (1999), Honorary Citizen of the city of Kharkov ...
Sergey Igorevich - The First Ukrainian, rising to Everest (together with Mikhail Turkevich), made 13 climbing 7 vertices above 8000m, multiple champion of the USSR and Ukraine, the acting climber (in February 2017, once again ascended the highest point of America - V.Akokagua) .
Professional lecturer and beautiful narrator, wrote three books, merry and soul of the company, modest and devoted in friendship ... A person with a capital letter with which many dreams of "walking in one bundle"!
Our dear Sergey Igorevich, congratulations on the anniversary!
Health, happiness, success in activities and new vertices !!!
Biographical reference:
Borshov Sergey Igorevich
MS climbing (1971), ms on mountaineering (1973), SMS and MSMK (1982), "Snow Bars" (1988), ZT of Ukraine (1990), Methodist Methodist 2nd category. Champion of the USSR and Ukraine.
Locksmith, electrician, painter-export. After the end of the Kiev Institute of Physical Education worked as an instructor of the widthport. Associate Professor of the Kharkiv Institute of Physical Education. The first ascent performed in 1965 on c. VIA-Tau (3820 m). First instructor - J.Ya. Katrich.
In 1969 he graduated from the Kharkiv City School of Mountain Instructors. For many years, worked as an instructor in the Alpallands of the Caucasus, the coach in the expeditions and in the preparation of teams to the Championships of the Union, Ukraine, the WCSPS.
As art. The coach prepared five Himalayan expeditions. More than 10 times rose to the seven thousandths of the Soviet Union. The teams of Switzerland, Italy, USA, France, FRG, Nepal, Japan, made outstanding climbing in the teams. Union Champion: 1973 - class of technically complex climbs; 1984 - technical class; 1986 - Technical class. 4-fold winner of the championships of the Union, 5-fold champion and 6-fold medalist of the championship of Ukraine.
By 2000, there were about 100 routes 5b and 6b to. S., Of these, 22 are p / in and p / p. 1982 - At night on May 4, in a bundle with M. Turkevich rose to Everest. 1989 - South. Kanchenjang on a new way; Then hands. Tr. from zap. to southern. Kanchenjangi. This traverse was passed in one day (!). 1990 - In conjunction with V. Karataev in the hardest weather conditions, Yu. The wall of Lhotse. R. Messen called it ascent "ascent of the XXI century." 1996 - Annapurna (Mt Bonington); 1997 - Nanga Parbat (Mr. Kingsstorm); 1998 - Shisha-Pangma from Sev.; 2000 - repeats the climb on Everest with the expedition of Krasnodar climbers. The Himalayan experience contributed to the fact that the entire sports staff of the expedition - 12 people reached the vertices. 2003 - Mac-Kinley; 2004 - Cho-Ohu (8201 m); Everest (up to a height of 8600 m); 2005 - Everest (8848 m), by S.-V. ridge; 2007 - Hidden Peak (up to a height of 7800 m). Repeatedly participated in rescue work: on the Ushbe, Elbrus (5642 m), p. Volnaya Spain (4200 m), Mihirgi (5025 m), Chatin-Tau (4368 m), Clara Zetkin (6641 m), Communism (7495 m), Khan-Tengri (6995 m), Nanga-Parbat (8125 m) and in Everest (8848 m).
S. Borshov made a worthy contribution to sports climbing: 1969 - the third media winner of the Union Championship in Multi-Obory; 1971 - the champion of the Union in conjunction with A. Moskaltsov and the Caucasus champion in Individual Lazania; 1974 - Champion of the WCSPS in Ind. Lazania (80-meter highway), on the 100-meter highway - the third, "Dombie bundles" - the champion (with V. Antipova); 1976 - Champion of the WGSPS in bundles (with V. Pilipenko); 1977 - 2nd place at the Union Championship in the steam race. International Competitions in Poland: 1st place in Ind. Lazania and in bundles from Vasilenko; 1979 - At the Union Championship: 2nd place in a bundle with M. Turkevich, and in all-around - 3rd. 1980 - Championship of the WCSPS - 1st place in a bundle with M. Turkevich; 1981 - Union Championship - 2nd place in a bundle with M. Turkevich; 1982 - International Competitions: 2nd place in the bundle and 3rd in all-around; 1984 - International Competitions in Japan: 1st place in Lazania for speed and 1st place for complexity. During the period of active sports climbing, the champion of Ukraine (8 times the winner) was becoming 28 times and 26 times the Champion of the Avangard CA (9 times the winner).
For achievements in the mountaineering, he was awarded the Order of the Labor Red Banner (1982), Friendship of Peoples (1989), "For Merit" III degree, "For the courage" of II degree (1999). In 1989, he was awarded the honorary sign of the Central Committee of the VLKSM "Sports Valor". 12 years participated in complex high-altitude work on repeaters (Promalp).
In 2004, awarded the title "Honorary Citizen of the city of Kharkov".
Currently, the Associate Professor of the Department of Winter Sports, Cycling and Tourism of the Kharkiv State Academy of Physical Culture, Vice-President of the Mountaineering Federation and Climbing of the Kharkiv region.
Sergey Igorevich Borsov (born 1947, with. White clay, Verkhtursky district, Sverdlovsk region) - Soviet and Ukrainian athlete-climber.
Master of Sports on Climbing (1971), Master of Sports by Alpinnismum 1973, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR and Master of Sports of the International Class (1982), Snow Bars (1988), ZT of Ukraine (1990), Methodist Instructor 2- C category. Champion of the USSR and Ukraine.
Biography
Childhood spent in Meref under Kharkov.
He worked as a mechanic, an electrician, a maxigor. After the end of the Kiev Institute of Physical Education worked as an instructor of the widthport. Associate Professor of the Kharkiv Institute of Physical Education.
Sergei Borshov became a very famous climbing, climber and a skier thanks to his incredible endurance. As a child, he had heart problems, and doctors banned him to play sports. However, Sergey arrived in his own way and became an active athlete, after ten years, doctors did not find any problems with his heart. Alpinism came in 1965, thanks to his first coach, the famous Kharkov mountaineer Vladimir Josefovich (Vila) Verzezovsky. The first climb committed in 1965 on c. VIA-Tau (3820 m).
In 1969 he graduated from the Kharkiv City School of Mountain Instructors. For many years, worked as an instructor in the Caucasus Alpallades, the coach in expeditions and in the preparation of teams to the Championships of the Soviet Union, Ukraine, the WCSPS. Sergei Borsov actively engaged in climbing, which at the time just began to develop in the USSR. Despite the lack of specialized climbers, training of Kharkov climbers took place on old brick walls and on the rocks of Crimea. Bershov fifteen times won climbing competitions in the USSR, six times became the champion and prize-winning international competitions. Three times was the Champion of the USSR on the mountaineering - in 1973, 1974, 1986 in technical and rock classes, eight times - the winner of the USSR Championship. During the classroom, mountaineering made more than one hundred climbing 5b and 6 K.Tr., including 22 perenidity and validity.
Despite the ununimistic age, retains a sporting form that allows him to go first on rock climbing routes of the highest category. Worked in the mountains as an instructor or coach, 1600 days. In 1975, he became one of the first Soviet climbers who touched the rocks of Yosemites. She went first during the first "Russian" passage of the Salat route on El Captain.
As a senior coach prepared five Himalayan expeditions. More than 20 times rose to the seven thousandths of the Soviet Union. The teams of the team made outstanding ascents in the mountains of Switzerland, Italy, the USA, France, Germany, Nepal, Japan. Since 1981, a member of the staffing team of the USSR Sports Committee, after the collapse of the Soviet Union, a member of the staffing team of the Alpinists of Ukraine and at the same time its coach.
In 1982 - a participant in the first Soviet expedition to Everest. On the night of May 4, 1982 in conjunction with Mikhail Turkevich. It was the first night climb to the top of the world. According to the results of the work of the first Soviet Himalayan expedition, he, as well as other team members, was awarded the title of Honored Master of Sports and a master of sports of international class.
In 1989, he participates in the Himalayan Soviet Expedition - Traverse of All Four Verkhin Kanchengjangi. On April 14, 1989, it makes climbing Kanchenjangu South (8491m) - first traverse in the preparation of traverse massif. May 1, 1989 makes traverse-first-first Yalung Kang (8505m) - Kanchenjang Home (8586m) - Kanchenzhanga Average (8478m) - Kanchenzhanga South (8491m). This traverse was passed in one day! For courage and heroism, when conquered Kanchenjangi was awarded the Order of the "Friendship of Peoples".
On October 16, 1990, in a conjunction with Vladimir Karataev, in the most difficult weather conditions, the first position of the South Wall Lhotz (8516m), which many climbers in the world unsuccessfully tried to pass. From her, Rynhard Messen retreat from her. An outstanding Polish climber Jerzy Kukchka prophetically said that if he won't pass this wall in 1989, the Russians will be held in the 90th. Cuckoo stayed there in 1989 - Soviet climbers found the cliff of his rope on the wall. The ascent of Bershov - Karataeva became the highest sports achievement of world mountaineering. Strong snowfalls, avalanche and cold tried to prevent an expedition. Sergey Borshov and his partner were without oxygen four days at an altitude of 8 thousand meters, waiting for good weather. Brysov and Karataev This climb was gone hard. Without the help of Turkevich and a penny karataev, it would be difficult to descend. Reinehard Messner called it ascent "ascent of the XXI century."
On July 31, 1997, Parbat (8125M), Mr. Kingsstraser, is climble, Mr. Kingstormo.
On May 1, 1998, it makes climbing Shishabang (8012m), according to the classics, in the Alpine style, with A. Bokov and I. Svergun.
May 17, 2000 - Everest, S. V. Comb. Repeats the climb on Everest with the expedition of Krasnodar climbers, as a consultant coach. The Himalayan experience contributed to the fact that the entire sports staff of the expedition - 12 people reached the vertices.
2003 -
Personal life
Married to Tatiana Bershova.
For achievements in the mountaineering, he was awarded the Order of the Labor Red Banner (1982), Peoples Friendship (1989), "For Merit" III (1996), "For Courage" II degree (1999).
In 1989, the honorary sign of the Central Committee of the VLKSM "Sports Valor" was awarded.
Awarded a silver medal "For merit in the development of Kuban".
In 2004, awarded the title "Honorary Citizen of the city of Kharkov".
In 2012, he was awarded the sign "Everest"
Sergey Igorevich Borsov (Rod. 1947, p. White clay, Verkhtursky district, Sverdlovsk region) - Soviet and Ukrainian athlete-climber.
Master of Sports on Climbing (1971), Master of Sports by Alpinnismum 1973, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR and Master of Sports of the International Class (1982), Snow Bars (1988), ZT of Ukraine (1990), Methodist Instructor 2- C category. Champion of the USSR and Ukraine.
Biography
Childhood spent in Meref under Kharkov.
He worked as a mechanic, an electrician, a maxigor. After the end of the Kiev Institute of Physical Education worked as an instructor of the widthport. Associate Professor of the Kharkiv Institute of Physical Education.
Sergei Borshov became a very famous climbing, climber and a skier thanks to his incredible endurance. As a child, he had heart problems, and doctors banned him to play sports. However, Sergey arrived in his own way and became an active athlete, after ten years, doctors did not find any problems with his heart. Alpinism came in 1965, thanks to his first coach, the famous Kharkov mountaineer Vladimir Josefovich (Vila) Verzezovsky. The first climb committed in 1965 on c. VIA-Tau (3820 m).
In 1969 he graduated from the Kharkiv City School of Mountain Instructors. For many years, worked as an instructor in the Caucasus Alpallades, the coach in expeditions and in the preparation of teams to the Championships of the Soviet Union, Ukraine, the WCSPS. Sergei Borsov actively engaged in climbing, which at the time just began to develop in the USSR. Despite the lack of specialized climbers, training of Kharkov climbers took place on old brick walls and on the rocks of Crimea. Bershov fifteen times won climbing competitions in the USSR, six times became the champion and prize-winning international competitions. Three times was the Champion of the USSR on the mountaineering - in 1973, 1974, 1986 in technical and rock classes, eight times - the winner of the USSR Championship. During the classroom, mountaineering made more than one hundred climbing 5b and 6 K.Tr., including 22 perenidity and validity.
Despite the ununimistic age, retains a sporting form that allows him to go first on rock climbing routes of the highest category. Worked in the mountains as an instructor or coach, 1600 days. In 1975, he became one of the first Soviet climbers who touched the rocks of Yosemites. She went first during the first "Russian" passage of the Salat route on El Captain.
As a senior coach prepared five Himalayan expeditions. More than 20 times rose to the seven thousandths of the Soviet Union. The teams of Switzerland, Italy, USA, France, FRG, Nepal, Japan, made outstanding climbing in the teams. Since 1981, a member of the staffing team of the USSR Sports Committee, after the collapse of the Soviet Union, a member of the staffing team of the Alpinists of Ukraine and at the same time its coach.
In 1982 - a participant in the first Soviet expedition to Everest. On the night of May 4, 1982 in conjunction with Mikhail Turkevich. It was the first night climb to the top of the world. According to the results of the work of the first Soviet Himalayan expedition, he, as well as other team members, was awarded the title of Honored Master of Sports and a master of sports of international class.
In 1989, he participates in the Himalayan Soviet Expedition - Traverse of All Four Verkhin Kanchengjangi. On April 14, 1989, it makes climbing Kanchenjangu South (8491m) - first traverse in the preparation of traverse massif. May 1, 1989 makes traverse-first-first Yalung Kang (8505m) - Kanchenjang Home (8586m) - Kanchenzhanga Average (8478m) - Kanchenzhanga South (8491m). This traverse was passed in one day! For courage and heroism, when conquered Kanchenjangi was awarded the Order of the "Friendship of Peoples".
On October 16, 1990, in a conjunction with Vladimir Karataev, in the most difficult weather conditions, the first position of the South Wall Lhotz (8516m), which many climbers in the world unsuccessfully tried to pass. From her, Rynhard Messen retreat from her. An outstanding Polish climber Jerzy Kukchka prophetically said that if he won't pass this wall in 1989, the Russians will be held in the 90th. Cuckoo stayed there in 1989 - Soviet climbers found the cliff of his rope on the wall. The ascent of Bershov - Karataeva became the highest sports achievement of world mountaineering. Strong snowfalls, avalanche and cold tried to prevent an expedition. Sergey Borshov and his partner were without oxygen four days at an altitude of 8 thousand meters, waiting for good weather. Brysov and Karataev This climb was gone hard. Without the help of Turkevich and a penny karataev, it would be difficult to descend. Reinehard Messner called it ascent "ascent of the XXI century."
On November 20, 1996, in a conjunction with Igor Ovrikunu dates back to Annapurna (8091m), on the southern wall, along the Bonington route.
July 31, 1997 makes climbing Nanga-Parbat (8125m), Mr. Kingsstraser, in Two with V.Terzeul.
On May 1, 1998, she climbing Shisha Pangma (8012m), according to the classics, in the Alpine style, with A. Bokov and I. Svergun.
May 17, 2000 - Everest, S. V. Comb. Repeats the climb on Everest with the expedition of Krasnodar climbers, as a consultant coach. The Himalayan experience contributed to the fact that the entire sports staff of the expedition - 12 people reached the vertices.
2003 - Mac-Kinley
2004 - Cho-Oyu (8201 m)
2005 - the third climb on Everest (8848 m) with I. Svergun
2007 - Hidden Pic (up to a height of 7800 m)
2008 - Broad Peak (up to 7300)
Repeatedly participated in rescue work: on the Ushbeh, Elbrus (5642 m), p. Volnaya Spain (4200 m), Mihirgi (5025 m), Chatin-Tau (4368 m), Clara Zetkin (6641 m), Communism Peak (6641 m) 7495 m), Khan-Tengri (6995 m), Nanga Parbat (8125 m) and in Everest (8848 m).
12 years later participated in complex high-altitude work on repeaters and in construction (industrial mountaineering).
Personal life
Married to Tatiana Bershova.
Awards
- For achievements in the mountaineering, he was awarded the Order of the Labor Red Banner (1982), Peoples Friendship (1989), "For Merit" III (1996), "For Courage" II degree (1999).
- In 1989, the honorary sign of the Central Committee of the VLKSM "Sports Valor" was awarded.
- Awarded a silver medal "For merit in the development of Kuban".
- In 2004, awarded the title "Honorary Citizen of the city of Kharkov".
- In 2012, he was awarded the sign "Everest"