Climbing Rock Climbing - sport and active rest - The hobby, which lies in climbing on the natural (rock) or artificial (climb) relief. Binding as a kind of mountaineering, sports climbing is currently - an independent sport.
The disciplines of sports climbing, according to which international competitions are held: climbing on difficulty, climbing for speed and bowlding.
Lazain on difficulty.
The goal of the Lazanian process is to rise to the top of the route - Top. Climbing is given a small amount of time (as a rule, 5-6 minutes) to view the track, during which the athletes think of each other, as in the chess party, after which they take turns to try to crawl the track. The participant is given one attempt. As a rule, there is a time limit (from 4 to 15 minutes). For the next round, the climbers are ranked depending on the height achieved.
This climbing discipline is "who above" - \u200b\u200benjoys great popularity around the world, and victories and achievements in this form are the most prestigious among climbers. Difficulty - technically diverse and sophisticated motor activityrequiring high organized, collens, coordination, accuracy and accuracy of movements. Endurance and strength, flexibility and plastic, high intelligence - here are the constituent success in difficulties. Trails difficulties are classified by different categories from 4 seconds to 9 V.
Lazain on speed.
The speed originated in the Soviet Union in 1947 as climbing for a time ("who is faster") with the upper insurance and initially considered as auxiliary type of mountaineering. In the future, this climbing discipline was supplemented with climbing on a more complex relief, but, again, for a while. The speed of the speed was particularly popular in Russia and the countries of Eastern Europe, and today the speed is becoming increasingly popular and in Asian countries. Tracks international Competition Make a height from 10 to 27 meters. Lazain on speed is defined as climbing discipline in 1987 by the climbing commission at UIAA.
In 2005, to accelerate the inclusion of climbing in the Summer Program Olympic Games A reference route was created and most international competitions began to go on it. The 14th stage of the World Cup of 2012 entered the history of the world's world records, which athletes were installed along the tournament. Recall that before the start of the competition in Sinine best time Men belonged to the Chinese athlete Qixin Zhong and amounted to 6.26 seconds. According to the results of the qualifications, the world record moved to Evgeny Waitzovsky - 6.07 seconds. Further more! In the 1/4 finals, the pupil of love Alexandrovna Stepanova Evgeny Vaitskhovsky once again updated the world record - showed time 5.94. But he did not stop at this - in the semifinals he gave 5.88 seconds 15 meters reference route!
Bouldering (English Bouldering) - Climbing discipline - a series of short extremely complex trails (the number of interceptions from 4 to 12).
The name "Bouldering" comes from the English "Boulder" (Boulder), Bouldering - clown clouds.
At competitions held on the French system, for each track and rest between them are given a few minutes (usually 4-6). Athlete can use an unlimited number of attempts. On the track there is a bonus - intermediate finish and top - finish on the track. Gymnastic insurance and special mats are used - Crash Pada.
In popularity in the world, Bouldering successfully competes with climbing difficulty.
The proximity of the speakers (compared to other types of climbing) allows the audience better to see the emotions of athletes, charge their energy.
Everything official Competition In sports climbing, they are on the climbers, to ensure the same conditions for the participation of athletes.
The main types and styles of climbing in the hall and on the natural relief.
Climbing on natural relief
Difficulty - Lazaging long routes (over 40 meters) with insurance through stationary points of insurance. To learn how to climb difficulty, it is necessary to make a greater emphasis on the development of endurance.
FREE SOLO (Free Solo) - Free climbing - without insurance, without a partner, alone. Basically, this concept refers to long multipitles and large walls.
Dip Water Solo (Deep Water Solo) - Single climbing on rock routes towering over water. This type of climbing has developed in places where, most often, there were rock ledges in the sea. The height of the route athlete chooses itself, the insurance in this form is water.
Big Wall - Complex climbing climbing bundles, which can last a few days.
Multi-Pitch (Multi-Pitch) - A rock route that has inpatient insurance points and intermediate stations. Multipitch can be called extensive difficulty.
Mirror - So in mountaineering they call absolutely climbers, which are famous for the lack of auch and convenient sites for their own insurance (trad).
Bildyring (Buildering) - It is considered urban sports, used in combination with Parkur. They climb on bridges, aqueducts, buildings and any other man-made structures.
Bouldering (Bouldering) - type of climbing, characterized by low (4-5 meters) by routes and extremely complex tracks with incredible tilt angles. In the natural environment, the bowlding routes are paired on large stones and boulders. From insurance - only mats at the bottom of the stand. In its movement to the target - the top - you climb, break and try again. Without delay! Incredible dynamics, energy and excitement!
Sports climbing in the hall
- The most common type of sports climbing, which is very popular with climber. Victory and achievements in this form are the most prestigious. The main goal in climbing climbing is to get to the top, that is, to the top, in the minimum time. The difference from other types of sports climbing is in the height and length of the tracks, light interceptions, greater hooks.
To fully prepare for competitions for difficulty, the "right" training wall is necessary for climbing in the hall. Since in this form of sports climbing, like in any other, absolutely all components are important: relief, the size and shape of the hooks, the time of climbing, the slope of the slope, etc.
Lazain on the difficulty - the lot of courageous and strong spirit. Compared with others, this type of sports climbing requires great effort, will, tactical and technical literacy maximum, excellent physical training and psychological sustainability. But the higher the value of victory, the fact of your achievements!
In rock climbing, endurance, speed, excellent technique, ability to concentrate, quickly make the right decisions, personal collections and organization, strength, flexibility, plastic. Lazain on difficulty is exactly what will allow you to fully experience the joy of overcoming and real, nothing inclined, the taste of victory!
- the most dynamic type of height conquest. This species implies climbing only on artificial relief, and the main goal, as can be understood from the name, is the most rapid breakage of the track. For the minimum time, you need to reach the vertices of several meters (from 10 to 27 meters). Imagine! You, literally, five minutes to "calculate" the track and each of your turns - like in a chess party. And then for the maximum a short time You need to competently play your "solo party" and climb to the top. To do this, you need to use all your resources and skills.
It is in rock climbing, especially in a double race, you will feel the spirit of healthy competition and learn to conquer the height - without exaggeration - in a matter of seconds!
Bouldering clutter (From the English. Bouldering - Lazania on large stones) is a special type of climbing, which is based on the passage of low complex tracks that require special techniques of Lazania. As a rule, the height of the bowlding routes is not more than 4-5 meters. The only Insurance on Bouldering is special mats, the so-called Crach Pad. If you make a mistake on the track and break, then the fall in soft mats reduces the risk of injury.
One of the attractive sides of the bowlderring is dynamism. This type of climbing requires high energy and strength. The ability to attach all the power literally in several movements. Sometimes, to reach the next hook, it is necessary not only to be aggregated, but only certain muscle groups use. This makes bowldinga to some extent similar to martial arts.
In bowldinga, preference is given to spent movements and a short series of interceptions. Unlike climbing the difficulty in this form of climbing, an unlimited number of attempts in a certain period of time is allowed (usually 4-6 minutes). In the natural environment, the bowlding routes are paired on large stones, boulders.
Fitness climbing - This kind of cold climbing has recently been loved by many fitness lovers. Rock climbing, like no other sport, develops the whole body: it strengthens the muscles of the body (after all, with almost all groups of the muscles of the limbs and hulls are involved in Lazania) coordination, flexibility and plastic movements. The hall has been created favorable conditions for training, many auxiliary equipment and sports equipment.
In childhood, I spent a lot of time for the speed. "Run" I got better than to climb difficulty and bowldaring. At that time, I did not realize that it would help me to climb bowldaring in the future. Now I clearly understand the connection between speed and other types of climbing and the need to train it at least periodically.
What gives climbing at speed?
Lazain on speed develops muscle mobilization, improves reduction rate muscular fibers. And this is understandable - when you "run", you do not have time to a breather. Holding for the hook, you must immediately do the following movement. Also climbing at speed teaches quickly choosing the way, as you will move, what technique You will use, switch between them. And this is not all: the speed develops dynamic movements, the accuracy of taking the hooks, leggings, trains such qualities as purposefulness, durability, determination.
If you climb basically difficulty and bowlding, then at least two times a month speakers for speed. For beginners, climbing on the speed of an unknown route can create great difficulties. Therefore, I advise newcomers to conduct training for speed by a simple spent route. Increase the complexity of the route gradually.
There are several ways to climb the speed. Lazain with small pauses. When taking a new hooker, there is a pause, in which the athlete "picks up" legs for the next movement. At the speeds, such climbing is considered unacceptable, so much time is lost. But for beginners it will be good exercise. A more advanced climb on the speed is climbing without stopping. For such climbing, a coordinated work of hands and feet is necessary. Otherwise, hands or feet will be late, and pauses will form, which will increase the climbing time.
Fast climbing can help with climbing difficulties and bowlding. When you move quickly, you save your fingers from a large voltage and load the muscles of the forearms that are faster. Look at how professional climbing climbing climb. Chris Charm climbs very quickly, thereby he clogs her hands and loads his fingers. It is quite a massive climbing, so this tactic fits well to him and allows you to climb very heavy routes.
Competitions for speed.
If you consider climbing on speed as a competitive discipline, you need to tell about the requirements for the requirements. This is usually a pair race. Athletes start the signal and run up to the finish button. So that the athlete does not start moving before time, the button is attached to the floor, tracking the leg raising before the signal. Time for which climbing climbing is introduced into tOTAL TABLE. After all participants in the competition ran, the judges look at who ran better, and select the eight or more, depending on the total number of participants in the competition. Then the semi-finalists compete with each other until the best four will be conserved. Four are finalists. The man who won in all the races and showed the best time becomes the winner.
There are several types of climbing at speed. For example, there is climbing on the reference track. At all competitions, the track remains unchanged, at the expense of this athletes show amazing speed and time. The fifteen-meter wall runs over six seconds. World record - 5.60 seconds.
There is a difficulty at speed. Competitions, as well as speed, spend in a pair. Climbers quickly climb on identical heavy highways. Lazain occurs with the bottom insurance.
Most recently, I learned that there is a bouldering for speed. Superfinal "Adidas Rockstars" was carried out precisely on such a scheme.
Lazain on speed - spectacular view climbing. Imagine how you run charm up with an opponent, and the crowd shouts behind: "Come on, come on!". Independent feelings.
Tags:These are the main incidents that occur once at once occur at competitions in speed! Here and inaccuracy in the rules, and ignorance of these very rules, different starting systems, conditions. Maybe it will soon disappear and starts will pass without a chandelier!
1. Unified starting system.
A visual example of a temporary cut-off problem was at the first two stages of the World Cup in China, when the time of the occasion of one and other stages differed in half a second and all set personal records. By the way, only 1-2 athletes were able to update their results to ECM in Nanjing during the season. On the video, the start of the athletes on the light signal is compared, it is objective than the sound. Broadcast speed everywhere is different, so it is more logical to look at the signal
2. Falstarts.
Cases of falsers were enough and every start the reaction of judges on them was different, and the athletes (who did not make a falserant) poorly understood their rights.
Almost all starts of the season athlete who did not make Falstart had to climb one. This is explained by the fact that the athlete must have a temporary cut-off for further rounds, as with controversial moments (mutual breakdowns) in the following rounds, can watch the previous round.
The ideal example is to climb alone - Iranian Reza:
But there are imperfect examples when the athlete climbed alone and allowed the breakdown. So it was with Lena Timofeeva on Ecm in Arco, so it was with Polyna Aksenova on the Kyrgyz Republic in Voronezh. The Arco decided that no one in the next round was passed in 1/4 there were 7 athletes, and not 8. In Voronezh, they took the time of the previous round and it was not in favor of Polina. Although IFSC rules are spelled out that in this case there should be a resurgeon!
EKM ARKO:
KR Voronezh:
But a little climb IFSC went even easier way! In the last cup starts, the above was canceled! If one of the athletes makes a false, then the second automatically wins the round ends. Alone can not climb!
And if both athletes make Falstart? Here they look at the time of the reaction of the separation of legs from the starting platform (10 hundredths). Who has the time of the reaction faster, he lost ... In China, on ECM in Uvyan, there was such a case of two falsers again with the participation of Lena Timofeeva. On the video you can see that Lena made a feet of his rival later, and obviously! After a long trial with the judges, we were told the following: "The system fixes the pressure of the legs on the starting pedal! Lena weakened the pressure earlier than the rival, therefore her reaction time is faster, and in this situation mutual falsers, it loses round"
And the case on the first EKM 2017 between Anya Tsyganova and Alla Marenich (Ukraine) is generally strange! Here you need to watch the video:
Our Asian brothers offered this option in general - do not stop athletes when someone made Falstart! They will be recognized as a result after the finish button. The option is controversial and you can discuss for a long time, but first of all do it for the competition to do not pull and stop!
3. Double break
In this case, there is a restart. If the situation is repeated, then watch the previous round or any other completed round of athletes. However, there were few mutual disruptions. Here is the case of 2014:
These are the main incidents that occur once at once occur at competitions in speed! Here and inaccuracy in the rules, and ignorance of these very rules, different starting systems, conditions. Maybe it will soon disappear and starts will pass without a chandelier!
For clarity, I regish the basic rules for holding starts for speed:
1. The athlete is given 10 seconds. To prepare the starting platform, 4 seconds to approach the start after the "on the start" command. The rule does not apply hard, but if the athlete clearly exceeded all the rules, then the yellow card.
2. Two yellow cards per start - cancellation of the result of this start. If the athlete gets the third yellow card on one of the starts, it is not allowed until the next start!
3. After the command "Ready" (Ready), you can not raise your hand and appeal about unwitting - this is a yellow card. Before this team - you can!
4. The signal consists of three signals each with an interval of 1 second, the third signal is characterized by sound from the other previous ones.
5. The time of the reaction of the legs of the leg after the third signal is 10 hundredths!
6. If the athlete admits Falstart in any of the rounds, it automatically removed from the competition and takes the last place in this round, and its opponent (in final rounds) wins automatically and in this round may not continue his race!
7. If in the testing of the false, the athlete must climb on! The race do not stop!
8. mutual Falstarts. Watch the reaction time, who has closer to 10 hundredth, he won.
9. The athlete has 5 minutes of rest between their races. No matter, recount or next round.
10. Two breakdowns or the same time - rearning!
11. The breakdown of the starting system - the time is fixed on manual stopwheels. For each track, three judges with stopwalls. Take average time. Cut up to tenths.
12. If the same times in qualifying, the draw is carried out.
13. Less than 16 people participate in the starts, for example 15, then the next round takes 8 best. If less than 8, then 4!
There are several rounds of climbing, which gives both athletes and fans to devote a certain amount of more time. At the same time, there are individuals that are successful in all disciplines: both on the rocks in bowldinga and on the cliffs in difficulty. We invite you to get acquainted in more detail with the available rock climbing.
Sports climbing
As in any sport, there is a need to identify the strongest in one or another discipline. For this, the discipline of sports climbing is highlighted. Sport climbing competitions are held according to certain rules for climbing federations in four major disciplines.
- Lazain on difficulty
- Lazain on speed
- Bouldering
- Multi-around
Today, basically all competitions in disciplines are above are carried out on the climbers with artificial relief.
Lazain on difficulty
Otherwise, also called climbing difficulty or just difficulty. It is climbing in the hall on artificial relief, as well as on natural rocks. As a rule, routes for climbing to difficulty are quite long. therefore the best athletes This discipline has the highest endurance.
Competitions are difficult to pass using lower insurance. During the rise of the athlete above towards the completion of the track, the athlete sticks the fixed rope in the deceleration, located in certain places on the climbing.
The winner is detected from the distance that the athlete was held from the start of the track to the very remote hook, to which the athlete touched.
Competitions for complexity suggest the passage of the athlete of the highway with the lower insurance. As the athlete is lined with rods fixed on it to the deceleration lifting attached on it.
Lazain on speed
Otherwise, just speed. This is the so-called sprint on the vertical wall. Often the intended route is known to all participants in advance, even before the start. Its difficulty is not very high. The main criterion is the speed of passing the track.
Frequently often athletes according to the results of the distance, hundredths of seconds are separated. The main task when passing the distance is the touch of the finish circle or square at the top point of the track.
In the case of competitions on the reference track, the athlete has two attempts to pass the specified route.
Advantages at Lazania for difficulty are athletes with highly developed high-speed and powerful qualities. High endurance is not required.
Bouldering
Otherwise, just Boldering, well, or a boulder. Bouldering is climbing indoors or natural relief. Routes in this discipline are incomparably short compared to climb on speed and difficulty. Nevertheless, the routes at bowldaring require the highest strength preparedness of an athlete, as well as excellent technology and amazing coordination.
Bouldering competitions are Lazaging a series of tracks. Insurance of the participant's rope is required. Usually use special sports mats.
All you need when the Bouldering is climbing is rocky shoes and magnesia. Ideally, you need to have a couple of cracks of the dads and several fun friends for the company (but this is known, an additional option is no less complicated).
In Boldering, the climbing should be able to possess 100% in every movement, but Boldering is not only power, but also the ability to correctly read the problem, work well and have excellent coordination. One of the attractive sides of Boldering is dynamism. In practice, this means that you are climbing, breaking and try again. Insure your friends, they insure you and together you try, try and try. With a rope, it will not be released - there is a thoughtful approach. If Boldering is a fan, then the rope is a job (and who loves to work here? \u003d))
As mentioned above, Boldering problems can be very complex. Some movements require several days to develop, others - years.
Boldering uses its own way of assessing the complexity of routes.
In some places, as, for example, in the United States, a completely independent system of assessing the difficulty of the route is used. The name of the category here begins with the letter V (categories begin with the simplest - "V0-" and end in the most difficult "V14".
In Europe, the complexity assessment system is based on the French system of assessing the complexity of rock routes, but the criteria for evaluation are somewhat different and comparing the categories of difficulties and bolding is not entirely correct.
Climbing on natural relief
You can not climb only on the climbing. Remember that the climbing is primarily a preparation for the departure on the rocks, on the so-called natural relief.
There are several climbing varieties on natural relief. Each of the designated species is beautiful and interesting in its own way.
- Multipitishes
- Solo climb
Bouldering on natural relief
Bouldering on natural relief is called climbing on low rocks or on large boulders. Insurance athlete is carried out with the help of special small mats, as well as crash of the dads, which are stacked in places of the most possible fall of the sportman.
Climbing for difficulty natural relief
This type of climbing assumes climbing on special prepared rocks on rocks. It is necessary to clean the rocks and stones from possible dangerous places, chips, shrubs, organize the possibility of top and / or lower insurance. For this, constant insurance points are used: hooks, jumpers or loops from the climbing rope or steel cable, fixed on the protrusions of the rocks.
Climbing for difficulty on natural relief on unprepared tracks
The main difference of this type of climbing is the absence of pre-prepared insurance points. In essence, this is a kind of mountaineering. The athlete who goes first in the bundle organizes intermediate points of insurance, which are subsequently removed. Bookmarks are used, hooks in which Carabians are lying.
Multipitch
Multipitch is a type of climbing in bundles on long climbing routes. Mostly it is climbing from a single intermediate safety station until next. As a result, Multipitch is a consistent passage of a series of climbing routes for difficulty. Usually after each station is changing the first athlete in the bundle.
Solo climb
It's not just climbing natural relief without a partner. Insurance, if it is in general, it carries out an athlete itself. Popular subspecies are both Free Solo Climbing (climbing without insurance) and Deep Water Solo (where climbing is carried out above the reservoir). Perhaps this is the most dangerous and most spectacular look.